For the love of Kayaking
 

For the love of Kayaking...
For the well seasoned, the intermediate, and the amature yakers, or the one's that are thinking about getting one.
A place to share Idea's.
Ask questions.
Share place's you have been to.
Be you a recreational kayaker. A sports fisherperson, racing yaker, bird watcher yaker, touring, white water, sea or fresh water kayaking.
No matter what you like, it's all an addiction.
There are so many options to choose from. SIS which are sit inside.
SOTS which are sit on top. Chosing the right one is a task in itself.
Then comes the accessories. What type of PFD personal floating device. Which paddle is right for you. Anchors, Floating anchors, floats.
Bungies, straps. Rod holders,leashes,clamps,lights, fish finders, GPS, ropes, emergency kits, what type of roof carriers, buy versus make your own.
Stability, fast tracking, skirts, rudders. Yes so many options, so much choices. All in all, it's the matter of comfort, cost, and what your planning to do.
My main choice of information is, if your not sure what kind of kayak your wanting to buy; don't just buy because it looks pretty, rugged or you like the color. Don't buy out of desperation. Go to places that let you test paddle, try as many as you can. Ask question to the dealership, if there are courses, consider taking a basic class on paddling. And always wear you PFD it could save your life!
* There are many kayaks for sale online that are used, but if you don't know what your buying you could be buying someone elses problems. Know what your looking for, look for leaks, soft hulls, rotted seals. Ask to try before you buy.
* You can actually save a lot of money making your own accessories. And you really shouldn't over pack your yak to begin with, though I am very guilty of packing like im going to camp for 2 days. I am not one that likes name brands, I like basics, some of the low end brands actually work just as well as the expensive.
*PFD are the only expensive item that you need to spend money on, like I said earlier, it will save your life.

White water
 

I have done white water rafting and have always wanted to do white water kayaking, but never have. The closest place is a few hours away, so it really isn't possible for it to become a sport for me.

I have considered looking into ocean kayaking, as I go to the beach in the summer regularly. Now I know where to go for information this summer, if I decide to get into it.

Thanks, Blaze! :hangloose:

Ahhh speaking of the cold...
You can wear wadders, or you can purchase a neoprene body suit. For me, lol, cheap way, get a rain jacket suit, I use the pants, put on a neoprene wadder boot. A hoodie and I am ready!
Yes, I prefer the sit on tops, only cause I fish and I like to hang my legs off the side. I have yet to white water. Perhaps one day we can hook up and you teach me how to hit the rivers!

I've kayaked for many years (some years more than others), almost exclusively in the Hudson river around Manhattan & Brooklyn. The river is brackish and tidal so it's more like sea-kayaking. Lots of boat traffic as well ( just try to outrun the Staten island ferry sometime!). I've played in sit on tops when i wanted to get some sun on my legs, but normally it's all sit inside. Lately I've used a Cape horn 15, but i've also liked a 17 foot.

Once it warms up I'll be back, too much hassle to deal with full dry suit in the winter for me.

I don't own a boat. I've owned a PFD (because the one's the outfitter has are not made to accommodate breasts - so you either can't breathe or they ride up!

I do however have my own paddle. Best investment you can make I think. Mine is a good 10 years old - Epic carbon fiber. Love it, light as hell, esp important for long distance paddle.

I give you credit for trying to out run a ferry! The boaters here in Texas, they like to try and turtle you. SO I usually have my fishing rod in one hand while saluting the middle bird with my left. ~shakes head~ to much salutes cuts my fishing time in half!
Wonderful choice in paddle I must say! Because I use my paddle for everything, I have always used the Day tripper from Academy. It's not good in the cold weather, but I love the blade on it, and it's a good second paddle back up if something happens to your favorite paddle. I am now looking into the Bending Branches Whisper AS paddle.
http://www.coloradokayak.com/core/me...4e84f4db7aa075

What to Carry on Board
Kayak Fishing With Jeff McGovern

A kayak is not a bass boat, bay boat, or a flats boat when it comes to hauling equipment. While a kayak can fill most boating roles, space is limited-- so serious thought is needed as to what to carry. You outfit your boat according to the needs you have in your own fishing area. My fishing time is split between saltwater and freshwater in Florida. The gear is similar, except for the tackle changes normally associated between the two types of fishing.

Safety gear is first. You need to be safe in the water and there are some things that are mandatory and might be required by law. A PFD or personal floatation device is very important and should be worn at all times while in the kayak. A whistle is required as a signaling device and should be carried on board. Hat and sunglasses add protection and comfort from the sun. Proper clothing, either rain suit or sun protection, needs to be accessible for when the need arises. Fishing gloves protect the hands from sunburn and can aid in the landing of fish. Sun block should be worn at all times to protect the skin. I prefer at least SPF 30 or higher. Foot wear needs to be nonskid and of a type that can be worn in the water. Here in Florida, shoes with a sturdy sole help prevent cuts and slashes from oyster beds and shells. I also carry a sponge or towel to wipe my hands after a fish, as well as to soak up any water I get into the boat.

You need some way to secure your kayak while still fishing. An anchor or stake out pole is ideal for this. My preference is to use a small folding anchor on an anchor trolley rigged to the side of the kayak. If the water is shallow enough, in the W you can simply change your position on the seat to pin the hulls to the bottom--a great method for stop and go style flats fishing. In deeper water, a drift sock or small bucket can be used to slow down your drift. In addition to securing the kayak at times, you'll also need a place to keep the paddle out of the way. You can either place it across the cockpit, resting on the cockpit noodles or on paddle hooks (as seen on the W website.)

Fishing tackle needs a place to be kept out of the way until needed. A fishing vest with multiple pockets is fine for small terminal tackle and packages of plastic baits. It also gives you a place to carry a small camera, line clippers, dehookers, and other small fishing tools. I use small gear reels or lanyards to keep the gear close at hand but out of the way while fishing. Larger lures in tackle packs and other tools can be placed in a small plastic trashcan and slid under the deck on whichever side is most convenient. A net is handy and a small one can be kept under the front deck opposite the side with the trash can. Another great tool for landing and controlling fishing at the boat is a pair of fish grabbers.

I keep drinks and snacks in a small soft cooler behind me in one of the hull spaces. If fish are to be kept for dinner, they can be stored in a cooler bag in a hull space as well.

Rods and reels are placed in the flush mount holders, if the W model you have is equipped with them. My F2 has two holders, while my standard W boat has a three-tube crate rig mounted on the deck behind me. If I need extra rods, I use multi-piece pack rods stored below the decks. Some folks like to troll while paddling and the new Ram rod holders are ideal for this purpose.
Remember that, even though space is limited compared to a powerboat, there is more than enough room for a day of fishing in a kayak. It just takes a bit of thought and planning.

The newest model out for the angler kayaker
It's the Jackson Kayak Coosa
Shorter in stature 11'3" but the craze is on!
http://static4.jacksonkayak.com/jack...sa-product.jpg

I own a Perception Aquaterra Prism. 14' 4" long It's a fast yak, not really a fishing yak but I rigged it to become one. Not a beginner yak, it's not very stable, it was built for speed. This model is an older model but I had used one in Hawaii years ago and I always loved this yak. So I waited patiently until I found one here in TX. My next choice would have been a Heritage Redfish. But now I got my eye on the model above. Says you can actually stand on this model. Hmmm something to look forward to!

This thread looks great!

I've been interested in learning for a couple of years, maybe this summer will have to be the time. There are a couple of places near me that rent equipment by the hour, day, or longer, and give classes.

I have subscribed and will be keeping up with the thread.

Thanks :thumbsup:

Stohlquist Wedge-e Personal Flotation Device

see more products
by MTI MTI PFDiva Womens Kayak Life Jacket 2010: The PFDiva is the only Life Vest you can custom fit for different cup sizes. Inspired by the latest fashion & sports bra design trends, the PFDiva comes with the *Adjust-A-Bust* Fit Kit. Four ultra-soft Memory Foam pads can be inserted inside interior pockets to support the bust, improving the vest-to-body connection. PFDiva moves with you. Other women-friendly features are the Racer-Back shape, a front entry zipper, easy-to-use adjustment straps, pockets, reflective tape for visibility, and pretty Butterfly Tattoos.
http://www.thefind.com/apparel/browse-womens-kayak-life-jacket
There are PFD's in so many more choices for women now.




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How to Find the Best Kayak Life Vest for Women





http://photos.demandstudios.com/224/..._508003_XS.jpg http://photos.demandstudios.com/224/..._508003_XS.jpg kayak 9 image by Jerome Dancette from Fotolia.com

How to Find the Best Kayak Life Vest for Women



Overview

A kayak life vest, or a personal flotation device (PFD), is a necessary piece of kayaking safety gear that provides buoyancy should you fall into the water. Regardless of type and size of watercraft, the U.S. Coast Guard requires each person carry a PFD on board. Women-specific PFD's are customized for a better fit and improve their effectiveness as a life preserver.


Step 1

Torso length of the PFD should be short. To maximize mobility while paddling, women's PFDs will be shorter in length and have a racer cut on the back of the vest. The shortened length allows for a versatile and snug fit across the waist and chest, will prevent the PFD from riding up above the shoulders and will not interfere with the kayak seat back.
Step 2

The PFD should have built-in contoured cups. Built-in contoured cups wrap and support the bust line rather than crush or flatten.
PFDs for whitewater Great selection of PFDs from Astral Lotus and Kokatat zoaroutdoor.com/catalog
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Step 3

The PFD should have adjustable shoulder and waist straps with side-release buckles. Adjustable straps allow you to customize the fit of your PFD for comfort and maximum safety. A vest that fits snugly will keep you afloat should you fall into the water.
Step 4

Over the head or side-zip design prevents the PFD from coming undone during use. Life vests with a center-zip closure can unzip during a wet re-entry into your kayak. An over-the-head design or side-zip closure prevents the zipper from pulling down when getting back into the kayak in the event of capsize.
Step 5

The PFD should have storage for safety gear. Two front cargo pockets are essential for carrying safety gear such as a whistle, a knife and food. The vest should also have reflective tape on the front and back to allow for visibility in low light.

Inflatable PFD Life Vest Mustang & SOSpenders Life jackets infant, children's & adult vests! www.LandfallNavigation.com
Life Vests at SwimOutlet Low Price Guarantee, Free Shipping, The Web's Most Popular Swim Shop! www.SwimOutlet.com
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Hi-Vis Clothing ANSI Coats, Hats, Vests, Leather, Radio Straps, Suspenders www.firstoutrescue.com
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Tips and Warnings

• To care for your PFD, rinse after each use and let the vest dry before storing.

References

• REI: Gear for Kayak Trips
• Water Outfitters: Kayak Life Jackets vs. Traditional Life Jackets

Photo Credit

kayak 9 image by Jerome Dancette from Fotolia.com

http://sitelife.demandstudios.com/ve...e313.Small.jpg About this Author

Cathleen Calkins is a writer and photographer specializing in writing about travel, adventure, lifestyle, health, fitness and brand identity since 1998. Her work has appeared in "Backcountry," "Telemark Skier" and "The Rotarian" magazines, as well as "LA Weekly," "Las Vegas Review Journal" and a number of adventure travel and marketing websites. She holds a Bachelor of Science in hospitality management from Rochester Institute of Technology.




Read more: http://www.livestrong.com/article/12...#ixzz19uTjXPrH

To Kayak or Not

I've been goofing around in the surf with my O.K. Scrambler. I've recently picked up a sit-inside white water kayak, but I'm too aprehensive to bring it into the surf until I learn how to eskimo roll. If anyone knows where I could find some Eskimo Roll classes, or if there is anybody out there willing to give me a lesson, let me know.
Probably the best way to find out if sea kayaking is for you is to go with an outfitter on a day paddle. Many offer trips for raw beginners. Central Coast Kayaks offers the "Tomol Tour for novices, Paddle Sports (805) 899-4925 in Santa Barbara has beginner paddles, Channel Islands Kayak Center has the "Coastline Paddle Experience" others have similar outings that include all rental of a kayak, all the gear you need, and some instruction. See the Outfitters page.
After that you should consider taking an intro class such as Central Coast's Introduction to Paddling to learn more about "strokes, paddling weather, necessary kayaking equipment, personal and group management, launching and rescues."
You can go on to rent kayaks and join in an SBKA.ORG beginner paddle.
Renting gear allows you to try out different types of boats, such as sit-on-tops or sit-inside kayaks, and decide what's right for you if you decide to get your own equipment.
Sit-on or sit-in debate:
*Originally the only kayaks were sit inside. The Eskimos didn't have roto-molding plastic technology, only skins and bones....
*But now new kayakers have a bewildering choice of designs.
Many consider sit-on-top (SOT) kayaks as casual recreational kayaks without the capabilities to handle adverse conditions, but with the bonus of extra width and excellent stability, which is of paramount importance to the casual paddler. The can be cheaper, but often heavier, than sit inside (SI) kayaks.
Sit-inside (SI) kayaks are often more comfortable for longer paddles, carry more gear, and handle rougher weather and therefore tend to be the choice for touring and expedition kayaking. But the SOT designers are working on adding more capability to SOTs all the time.
SI kayaks have less initial stability than the SOT recreational kayaks, yet still have a fair bit of secondary stability, but more importantly, have the capabilities to handle more adverse conditions. Initial stability is the "tippyness" or lack thereof that you first feel when you sit on or in a kayak. Secondary stability is the self righting force that helps a kayak roll back upright when it's leaned farther over by a wave or the kayaker.
The SI paddler needs to learn to wet-exit a kayak and to get back in (called a "rescue" or "re-entry"). These skills are generally aquired in a one-day basic proficiency course plus a little practice. The paddler of a sit-inside kayak is protected from cold water, and wind, which is also a comfort factor. Wind chill can substantially reduce the temperature experienced by the kayaker.
The bottom line is most people start out in SOTs because they are easy and less intimidating to use. Many kayakers stay with SOTs and enjoy recreational paddling, caving, and even some open water trips (SOT paddlers have made the Channel Crossing). Others decide that they want the added seaworthiness and speed of a touring SI and go that way. Some get a specialized river type kayak for ocean surfing:
WHAT TO WEAR

The consensus seems to be to first consider immersion and dangers of hypothermia. According to the Coast Guard, hypothermia at 50 to 60 degrees produces exhaustion or unconsciousness in one to two hours, and the expected survival time is one to six hours. Note that most of us wear type III PFDs that will NOT keep an unconscious person face up, which means that you will likely drown even with the PFD once you loose consciousness. Several kayakers have reported on how quickly (only a few minutes} immersion in cold water (winter So Cal ocean water temps are in the mid 50's) can rob you of strength and judgment.
As to what to wear, a popular choice was a "Farmer John (or Jane)" wetsuit with a paddle jacket top. Avoid cotton as a base layer, which holds water and chills. A surfer's lycra "rash guard" or a Polartec (warmer) base works and can help keep you warm even when wet. Poly pro is also suitable for a base layer. Some paddle jackets are "semi dry" with seals at the neck and wrist. Or you can wear a neoprene jacket as a top but neoprene jackets are restrictive for paddling. Even though they can provide more protection the thicker they are the more resistance and more energy can be wasted fighting the jacket. Don't forget a hat or even a hood in very cold conditions, as a lot of heat is lost from your head.
Sit on top kayakers seem to dress warmer as they are more exposed, likely to get wet, and easier to cool off.. Sit inside kayakers need to make choices balancing safety and comfort. People with little body fat may be more susceptible to hypothermia...
Reasons to dress warmer: Cooler water and air temps, sit on top kayak, surfing, practicing rolls, going out alone, rougher water, learner body type, beginner, safer.
Reasons to dress cooler: Warmer water and air temps, sit inside kayak, calm waters, in a group, expert.
More:
Randell Washburne in his book The Coastal Kayker’s Manual p 53 says: “ In warm-weather, cold-water environments, finding a suit of clothes that provides reasonable immersion protection without cooking you when you paddle is an almost impossible task, and a decision has to be made about the acceptable level of discomfort while paddling versus the degree of risk of capsize, which might force you to swim. If your brace and roll are very strong, you may judge the risk to be minimal and dress more for the air than for the water.
Or, as happened to a few paddlers, one dunking in cold water may convince you to always wear full immersion protection, no matter how hot the weather. As a compromise, you might adjust your clothes toward immersion protection during times of more significant risk, such as exposed crossings.”
Wayne Horodowich suggests: "Practice and perfect your capsize recovery skills so you won't have to spend much time in the water. This will give you more options for what you wear. Your two main goals regarding capsize should be: minimize exposure to the elements and be back in your kayak with kayak being sea worthy again."
Washburne goes on to talk about layering options and risk factors. Even when talking about the colder conditions in the Pacific Northwest, he rejects 1⁄4 inch wet suits, survival suits or mustang suits as too hot and bulky to paddle in. He says, “Many kayakers choose light wet suits as a compromise between paddling and in the water comfort. A 1/8 to 3/16 farmer John (no arms) worn over polypropylene underwear and under pile clothing or a shell provides good weather protection and fairly good immersion protection.”
Derek Hutchinson from England, who paddles all over the world says, in The Complete Book of Sea Kayaking, “..if I know I’m going to get wet, either surfing or demonstrating, I wear a thin, zipperless wet suit Long John over a long sleeved Hele-Hansen “liffa” shirt. On the other hand, if I don’t’ see much likelihood of getting wet and I’m embarking on an extended trip, then I am all for the “old comfort” outfit (polypro underwear, woolen pullovers, baggy trousers and a paddling jacket). Of course, he’s an expert paddler.
Most of what’s written is for sit inside kayakers, sit on top kayakers have different conditions. Their ride tends to be wetter than a person in a sit inside. The sit inside kayaker is wearing a spray skirt, which adds an extra torso layer. And the sit on top kayaker has an easier option to slide off his boat and cool down in the water and then has an easier time getting back on (but practice in a safe place with a partner first!).
On the other hand, the sit inside kayaker may be less likely to unexpectedly end up in the water, in my experience. Kayakers who plan to spend more time in the water may like the additional buoyancy a wet suit provides. Bottom line for kayakers in our area is you have to make your own informed judgment about what to wear based on conditions, your skills, the nature of your paddle, the possibilities for rescue if you end up in the water, and even your body type. Sit on top kayakers may prefer a farmer John or full wetsuit at all times, with an appropriate top, while many sit inside kayakers make the decision to skip the wet suit on hot days, if conditions are benign and he (or she) has partners he trusts to assist. But if they expect to be rolling, surfing, or facing tough conditions they may decide wear a wet suit, even in summer. Paddling in Alaska or the Pacific Northwest or other colder water regions may choose to wear wet suits (or sealed dry suits) at all times, even in a sit inside kayak.
Wayne Horodowich suggests: You may wish to consider an emergency dry bag with extra clothes when you go out with a group. Pile pants, pile pullover and pile cap (you can loose considerable heat through you head) are light but effective. Because of the size this bag it will probably end up strapped to the back deck. Don't store it in your main hatches because you don't really want to open any hatches when on the water unless it is a day hatch.
In your day bag which is kept behind your seat bring a space blanket for wind protection or a garden size plastic bag that can be made into a paddle vest to keep the wind off of the torso.

Sit-on-Top Vs. Sit-Inside Kayaks



http://photos.demandstudios.com/162/...4089763_XS.jpg kayak image by Greg Pickens from Fotolia.com

Sit-on-Top Vs. Sit-Inside Kayaks



Overview

If you are new to kayaking, choosing the right type of kayak can seem overwhelming. Kayaks come in various widths, lengths and shapes. They are made from many types of materials, including metal, vinyl and fiberglass. Choosing among these features depends largely on how you plan to use the kayak. For example, a kayak built for distance paddling can be difficult to control in rough rapids. Another factor to consider is whether to buy a sit-on-top or a sit-in kayak. Both types have distinct advantages and disadvantages.
Definitions

A sit-in kayak features a seat that is inside the kayak, according to Adventure Times Kayaks. There is an opening on top of the kayak for the paddler to climb in and out of the vessel. Some sit-in kayaks have water skirts over the opening to help prevent water from entering the kayak.



A sit-on-top kayak features a seat that is mounted above the hull, rather than inside it. The top of the hull is typically solid, with small holes or channels designed to drain water from the top of the kayak.
Appropriateness



According to the Paddleshack website, sit-on-top kayaks are appropriate for inexperienced paddlers, especially those who have not perfected techniques to avoid rolling the kayak. They are also appropriate for anglers because they are stable when stationary.



Sit-in kayaks are appropriate for more experienced paddlers who need greater control over the vessel. They also work well for avid kayakers who want a long kayaking season, because paddlers can be use them in spring and autumn weather.
Performance

Generally, sit-on-top kayaks are more cumbersome on the water than sit-in kayaks, according to Paddle Shack Kayaks. They are typically wider than sit-in kayaks to compensate for the paddler's higher center of gravity. This can make sit-on-top kayaks slower and more difficult to paddle.



The lower center of gravity of sit-in kayaks typically make them faster and easier to control.
Gear Storage

Because sit-in kayaks offer access to the entire hull, they are better for storing gear without tie-downs. Sit-on-top kayaks, on the other hand, have molded tops, providing less space for storing gear. Also, gear can be protected from the elements in a sit-in kayak but is exposed on a sit-on-top model.
Hauling and Storage

Because the seat is mounted above the hull on a sit-on-top kayak, it takes up more space during hauling and storage than a sit-in kayak. This can make hauling a sit-on-top kayak more difficult, particularly if you are hauling the vessel on top of a passenger car. A sit-on-top kayak is also more difficult to hang on a wall, which can create storage problems if you have a small garage or limited storage space.

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References

• Adventure Times Kayaks: Choosing a Fishing Kayak
• Paddle Shack Kayaks: Tips on Selecting a Kayak

Read more: http://www.livestrong.com/article/17...#ixzz19uiNY0Hn

Here is an excellent link to kayak help questions and answers.
http://www.kayakhelp.com/ Full of lots of info from buying one to taking care of it!

yippie! I paddle.
 

I have two boats now and just started easing back into it last summer.
I whitewater paddled in my twenties and loved it. then one good friday in 1988 I went rafting with a bunch of guide friends on the Occoe. it was flood stage and a very bad idea. I didn't get on white water again until last summer when I hit the river I learn to paddle on.



I picked up (for free :) ) a Bluehole whitewater canoe this summer and sorta stalled with the repairs on it. the boat is about 20 years old but it's a tough ass boat and was free. here's a pic of what they look like.
I also have an old town kayak like this one.

I wear a pfd like this but am shopping for something better fitting.


and my paddles...I have several paddles depending on where I'm going. :)

Great thread, thank you! :)

I love kayaking. I love the truly unique vantage point and experience I have in the water in a kayak: the proximity to birds and fish - the views of land - the quietness & peacefulness of it.

I learned in a white water kayak and it is still my favorite "medium", but I don't get to do it very often these days.

I've been moving around quite a lot over the course of the last ten years, so I don't have any of my own equipment right now. I rent equipment and go whenever I can, where ever I am.

I often get out on fresh water and slow rivers in my local area; I get out in a sea kayak a couple times a year off the coast of Cape Cod and very occasionally I get the opportunity to kayak in white water.

In November I went out in sea kayaks off the Island of Hawai'i, that was truly amazing - I was kayaking with huge sea turtles and dolphins.

Oh the Envy... You scored Afixer on the canoe! Hope you get to finish fixing it up and posting pictures! Thank you for sharing. And I love that you could show what model kayak you have! Mine is old, and you really can't find pics online anymore, lol. Guess I will have to take pics of mine later. The original Aquaterra Prism trademark was taken over by Perseption kayaks, so needless to say they stopped making this model. Out dated like me :seeingstars:

Sparkle, I love how you descibe the view of seeing it at birds view. Being able to see things that you don't get to see being on land. For me, I have never really river yaked, I do have an adventurous mind to try white water. But have only been a wave rider and angler yaker. Wow, now I really want to try river/white water challenge, sounds exciting.

The perspective is great and its different from other types of boating experiences; when I am in a kayak I really feel I am experiencing the water (like when I swim or snorkel). In canoes/boats/motorized boats - I feel like I am on top of the water, but in a kayak I feel I am IN it.

White Water kayaking is very exciting and challenging. It is also the most expensive way to kayak; the boat and paddles are more expensive and they get banged up much more quickly, and if you are renting equipment you need a helmet and a wet suit and certification/proof of experience at different rapids levels. But the boats themselves are very cool, so small and agile.

Turasultana, I've always wanted to kayak the Hudson around Manhattan but the boat traffic (BIG boat traffic, specifically, has always intimidated me).

http://www.addictivefishing.com/foru...-b124-4558.JPG
Yesssssss I found pics online of my model


http://images.craigslist.org/3p03o63...f5d1551d88.jpg
My yak is like the white one on the picture above, but I rigged it for fishing. Putting a Scotty rod holder, rod pipes behind the seat, and making a PVC rocket launcher to hold 5 poles or a net and 4 poles, lol. The only dislike of this model is the hatches leak if flipped making it an awful time trying to right it back. So I try hard not to turtle.

other parts of the Hudson are only an hour away.
and this places rents. Hudson Valley Outfitter's


I may have to try them out next spring. :)

River yaking Part 1
 

Information on River Safety:
http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/landwate...bannericon.gif
RIVER SAFETY

Top 10 River Safety Tips

1. Tell someone where you are going, when you expect to return, and where to call if you don't.
2. Make sure that your water skills and experience are equal to the river and the conditions.
3. Never boat alone. Always have at least one (preferrably two) other boats with you on a river trip.
4. Wear a Coast Guard approved type III-V, properly adjusted lifejacket at all times when you are in or near the river.
5. Know your limits of swimmers rescue and self rescue on rivers.
6. Know when and how to swim for the eddy.
7. Reduce injuries by wearing protective foot wear and proper clothing designed for river recreation.
8. Be prepared for extremes in weather, especially cold.
9. Know about hypothermia and how it can affect you.
10. Plan your trip and stick to your plan.
International Scale of River Difficulty

Flat Water
A - Pools, lakes, or rivers with velocity under 2 MPH.
B - Rivers with velocity 2-4 MPH.
C - Rivers with velocity over 4 MPH. May have sharp bends or obstructions.
Whitewater
CLASS I - Moving water a few riffles and small waves. Few or no obstructions.
CLASS II - Easy rapids with waves up to three feet, and wide, clear channels that are obvious without scouting. Some maneuvering is required.
CLASS III - Rapids with high, irregular waves often capable of swamping an open canoe. Narrow passages that often require complex maneuvering. May require scouting from shore.
CLASS IV - Long, difficult rapids, with constricted passages that often require precise maneuvering in very turbulent waters. Scouting from shore is often necessary, and conditions make rescue difficult. Generally not possible for open canoes. Boaters in covered canoes and kayaks should be able to Eskimo roll.
CLASS V - Extremely difficult, long and very violent rapids with highly congested routes that nearly always must be scouted from shore. Rescue conditions are difficult and there is significant hazard to life in event of a mishap. Ability to Eskimo roll is essential for kayaks and canoes.
CLASS VI - Difficulties of Class V carried to the extreme of navigability. Nearly impossible and very dangerous. For teams of experts only, after close study and with all precautions taken.
Essential Canoeing/Kayaking Equipment and Gear

Endlines - Installed on the bow and stern, a line size of 3/8" diameter and 15' long is optimal. Endlines should be stowed to prevent entanglement but be immediately accessible in the event of a mishap.http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/landwate...eequipment.gif
Endtanks/Endbag - Many canoes/kayaks come with built-in flotation in the bow and stern. The flotation should contour the end of the boat whether it is foam block or an inflatable bag.
Water Bottle - Be sure to drink plenty of nonalcoholic fluids. Dehydration results from excessive water loss. Take at least one quart of water per person per day.
Bailer - Scoop or sponge used to remove lose water from the craft.
Spare Paddle - always carry a spare paddle in case yours is lost or breaks. It may be fastened to the canoe but should be quickly accessible in case of an emergency.
Flotation Bags - To work best the bags should fit the hull snugly with little or no air spaces. Tie the bags securely in the craft to prevent them from popping out.
Thigh Straps - Usually made out of two inch nylon webbing, thigh straps give the paddler more control when maneuvering the craft. Optional class II, recommended class III and above.
Seats or Thwarts - Kneeling provides a lower center of gravity and stability through the triangulation of the legs in the bottom of the craft. The lower the height of the seat the more stability can be achieved. Ten to twelve inches above the bottom of the craft is good.
Throwline/Throwbag - Sixty to seventy feet of soft braided 3/8" polypropylene line to be used for rescue purposes.
Knee Pads - Usually made out of soft foam rubber, knee pads should protect the knees while kneeling. Also, they should affix the knees firmly to the hull. This increases the paddler's ability to maneuver the craft.
Choosing River Clothing

Cold Water
Like standing in a cold shower, cold water can drive the breath from a person upon impact with the water. It disorientates, totally robs a person's strength, quickly numbs the arms and legs, and within minutes the resulting severe pain can cloud rational thought. Finally, hypothermia (exposure) sets in, and without rescue and proper first aid treatment, unconsciousness and death may result. Experts consider water below 70 degrees F to be cold. Some experts use the "100 Degree Rule". If the air and water temperature combined to less than 100 degrees a wet or dry suit is mandatory and the river difficulty is considered one class more difficult than normal (i.e. Class II becomes Class III).
To protect against the effects of cold water, the paddler should select and layer clothing properly. One should know how to spot a hypothermic accident before it happens. Always plan a trip appropriately. Lastly, good paddling skills and equipment can often help the paddler avoid a situation which may lead to hypothermia.
Cold Weather Clothing
Helmet - Wear a good plastic or fiberglass helmet. Make sure that it protects your temples. A helmet is recommended for open canoeists on any river Class III or above.
Whistle - A must for communications. The sound of a whistle carries over the roar of the river and much further than that of the human voice.
Pouch - For storing valuables including car keys for the shuttle car and money for an emergency phone call.
Lifejacket - The lifejacket (PFD) should fit snugly, yet allow freedom of movement. A vest type jacket (type III) is more comfortable to wear, offers better protection to the lower back, and insulates better in cold weather than the inexpensive horse collar jacket (type II).
Dry/Wetsuit - Made of rubberized material the drysuit seals the paddler in a water tight shell. Normal paddling clothes can be worn underneath it. Made of neoprene the wetsuit traps and insulates a thin layer of warm water next to the body. Both suits should protect the high heat loss areas of the arm pits, crouch, and neck.
Sweater - Worn underneath the drysuit. Wool is good. Polypropylene is better. Avoid cotton. It's ability to "wick" moisture will actually make you colder. Layer your clothes so you can put on or take off layers if you get too hot or cold.
Knife - (optional) A knife may be carried to free the paddler in case of entrapment.
Safety Rope/ Throw Bag - Many experts carry a nylon sling with a carabiner or a mini-throwbag which can quickly be used to rescue another boater.
Booties - Wet suit booties with rubber soles are an ideal choice for cold weather. Also, wet suit socks worn inside rubber-soled sneakers or plastic sandals provide good protection.
Pogies - Usually fastened directly to the paddle, pogies or mittens protect the hands and wrists from chilling wind.
Paddle - Select a sturdy paddle, one made of fiberglass and aluminum. Wood paddles should be constructed with fiberglass reinforced laminated wood. A "T" grip gives better paddle control in whitewater.
Warm Weather Clothing
Hat/Helmet - A hat protects from the sun. Wear a helmet in Class II and above rivers.
Sunglasses - Choose a good pair of neutral density glasses, with straps if necessary.
Shirt - Wearing a shirt reduces the likelihood of sunburn. A cotton shirt "wicks" the water which helps the evaporation process cool the body.

Lifejacket - For the summer choose an open mesh design lifejacket for its ability to breath. Choose a vest type or jacket (Type III) for its comfort.

Swimsuit pants - Light weight pants over the swimsuit are a good idea even in summer. The sun reflecting off the water and the bottom of the boat can quickly bake the legs.

Pouch - For storing valuables including car keys for the shuttle car and money for an emergency phone call.
Layering Your Clothing
Layered clothes insulate better in cool weather than a single garment of the same thickness. Two medium weight sweaters offer more protection than one heavy sweater. Cover the sweaters with a paddling jacket for even more warmth. To trap in additional heat and keep water out, the paddling jacket should fit tightly around the wrists, neck and waist. Layers can be mixed to maximize the strengths of each layer. Some canoeist use a farmer john type wetsuit (no sleeves and legs) for their first layer coupled with a sweater and a paddling jacket on the next layer. This allows the paddler freedom of movement with the wetsuit providing extra protection if a paddler is immersed in the water. Also with layered clothes the paddler can easily adjust his comfort and heat loss by either putting on another layer or taking one off.

River yaking Part 2
 

How You Loose Body Heat
The water environment of the paddler greatly increases the potential the potential for heat losses through evaporation and convection. Layering your clothes combines the best properties of each garment to reduce heat loss. A sweater reduces convectional losses by creating dead air spaces in the fabric. A paddling jacket reduces air flow and reflects radiated heat losses from the body back toward the body. The summer paddler also needs to protect himself by wearing a hat to reflect the sun's radiation. Also, a cotton shirt and shorts help cool the body by evaporation.
Conduction (e.g. hand on aluminum shaft of paddle)
Convection (e.g. wind)
Radiation (e.g. unprotected head)
Evaporation (e.g. wet lifejacket and wet clothing)
Common River Hazards

Foot entrapment - Catching a foot in rocks on the bottom of the river. May be caused by trying to stand up while getting swept downstream in water mid-thigh to mid-torso deep.
Strainers - Trees or single branches in the current, with river water flowing through, can cause a severe pinning hazard. Strainers many be caused by erosion. Trees can also fall because of old age, floods, and storms. Look for them on wooded riverbanks, along small creeks after high water, often found on the outside of bend, and on less utilized rivers. Always look downstream to spot bobbing twigs or irregular flow patterns.
Man Made Entrapments - Manmade objects in the river are inherently more dangerous than most things natural. Keep an eye out for bridge pilings, low head dams, junked cars, any man made object found commonly in urban riverways, highway crossings, and abandonned dam sites. Make it a habit to visually scan downstream.
Broaches - Getting pinned on a rock, either amidship or at the ends. Avoid sharp rocks that can potentially crease a boat or serve as point to be wrapped by your kayak! Develop the instinct to lean into the rock with your boat and body leaning together.
Undercut Rocks - Undercuts are water features where a slab of rock, or rock shape, forces the current flow to go under the surface. Learn to spot them by the dark shadow on the upstream side of the rock, the lack of pillowing action by oncoming water, and by the lack of a predictable eddy on the downstream side. Most dangerous undercuts are well known by locals, and listed in guidebooks.
Entanglement - Getting tangled exiting your boat is most likely to be caused by ropes, and loose lines, in your boat. Practice wet exits and critically evaluate your outfitting for entanglement potential. Treat throw ropes as potential hazards. Keep them neatly bagged, and carry a knife for rescue.
Vertical Pins - When the bow buries and gets pinned on the bottom after a steep drop. This is not a concern until you are paddling drops of over 3 or 4 feet. Advanced paddlers prevent them by checking the water depth first, and leaning back and performing a 'boof' move to keep the bow up. Paddling boats with a large volume bow reduces this risk substantially.
Hydraulics - have evenly formed backwash, water moving back upstream for four or more feet. Holes with more of a wave shape are intimidating, but typically less hazardous than water flowing smoothly upstream. Dams, and hydraulics that are very regular, and perpendicular to the current are far more dangerous than hydraulics angled with one end downstream.
Long Swims - Wearing a tight PFD, matching your ability to an appropriate river, and being dressed for a swim can be excellent defense against a long swim. Another great precaution is a competent group of friends with either a shore or boat based rescue plan.
Recognizing and Avoiding Hazardous River Conditions

Conditions on rivers can change rapidly in Texas. Before setting out, a paddler should know the flow condition of the reach they are about to paddle. During high flows, the whole river reach may act like one long set of rapids. During high flows, the fast current may draw the unsuspecting paddler into other hazards. These include entrapment in floating debris such as logs, sweepers and strainers.
A sweeper is an overhanging branch or tree whose branches extend into moving water from above. Running into a sweeper will push a canoe over or could push and hold the paddler below the surface of the water. A strainer is a submerged tree or branches under the surface of moving water. A paddler could become pinned against a strainer.
Submerged hazards, such as rocks, logs and other debris, are not easily seen in turbulent water. A collision can cause the boat to upset; the hull may be punctured, or the paddler may be injured in the collision.
Once out of the canoe, the canoeist may be overcome by the current or pinned by the canoe. A swamped canoe can weigh as much as two tons and a paddler can be crushed between a canoe and a rock.
Cold water (less that 15° C) can be lethal. During spring conditions or in late fall, the river water is cold, and if you spill you can very quickly be overcome with hypothermia. Even if the paddler reaches shore, wind chill and cold air temperatures can accelerate the dangerous drop in body temperature. Shivering is an indication of the onset of hypothermia, and victims usually become too disoriented to be responsible for their own safety.
A riverbank is often well removed from emergency services and homes where help can be obtained. The tough reality is that you may be on your own to deal with a life-threatening situation. The tough reality too is that a paddler in danger may also be putting a rescuer's life in jeopardy.
Whenever you are on the river, it is important that you are prepared to deal with an emergency. Know where access points are along the reach of river that you are canoeing. Have a map of the reach that you are canoeing. Have a first aid kit and know basic first aid. Finally, a cellular phone in a waterproof bag may be invaluable in contacting help or emergency services.
Low head dams pose a special hazard to paddlers. In the fast waters, an upstream paddler may get too close to the crest of the dam and be swept over. A paddler may also get caught in the backwash current at the downstream side of the dam. Once in the backwash current, the paddler becomes trapped. Paddlers should use portages around these structures, and stay well clear of low head dams at any time of the year.
Boating safety awareness is not limited to the cold-water seasons. There are good solid rules that must be observed by prudent and safety conscious paddlers everywhere. Boating courses are an enjoyable way to prepare for any kind of boating.
Like the Boy Scouts advocate-be prepared. Being prepared before your trip can help avoid potential hazards or result in a positive outcome if an accident does occur. One of the most important considerations is a trip or float plan. Let someone know where you are canoeing, what your boat looks like and when you expect to return.

River yaking Part 3
 

Spotting a Potential Accident

River accidents don't just happen. They usually result from the interaction of a series of smaller events or misjudgements which culminate into a major accident. Experts analyze accidents in terms of their human, equipment and environmental factors. Usually, any one factor will not lead to an accident. However, the presence of three or even four factors in a paddling situation is a sign of serious trouble. In a sense, three strikes and a paddler may be out. The major factors that can lead to river accidents are:
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Planning a River Trip

Specific planning must be taken seriously by paddlers in preparation for a float trip. The suggested guidelines that follow should give the paddler an insight into what is to be considered before attempting a cruise on a river.
Leaders preparedness and responsibility
1. Know the river or stream to be paddled. River guide booklets and topography maps are valuable references in trip planning. Have knowledge of the difficult parts of the trip and the location of any low head dams. Be aware of any possible changes in the river's level. One may want to plan alternatives in case the river/stream is too high or too low.
2. Setup locations for put-in and take-out along with a possible lunch break stop. Consider time and distance. Arrange for shuttle.
3. Participants. Limit the size of the group to a number that can be comfortably controlled. Designated group leaders should be experienced paddlers. Decisions on the participation of inexperienced boaters should be based on total group strength. Remember the welfare of the group is a major responsibility, and a balance of experienced paddlers with the less experienced will make for a more enjoyable trip.
4. Equipment. Plan so that all necessary group equipment is present on the trip.
5. Float Plan. If the trip is into a wilderness area, or for an extended period, plans should be filed with appropriate authorities or left with someone who will contact them after a certain time. The establishment of a late return phone number can save time and worry for everyone involved.
Participants Preparedness and Responsibility
1. Be a competent swimmer with the ability to handle ones self underwater and in moving water.
2. Be certain that you have a properly fitted Personal Flotation Device (PFD), and wear it .
3. Be suitably equipped.
4. Keep your craft under control. Control must be good enough to, at any time, stop or reach the shore before reaching any danger. Know one's boating ability. Do not enter a rapid unless one is reasonably sure that it can be navigated safely or that one can swim the entire length of the rapid in the event of a capsizing.
5. Be sure to keep an appropriate distance between canoes (distance will vary depending on water conditions; a good rule of thumb is to always keep the canoe behind in view). Never get ahead of the assigned lead canoe or behind the assigned sweep canoe. Both lead and sweep positions should be held by experienced paddlers with knowledge of the water being traveled.
6. Keep a lookout for river hazards and avoid them.
7. Respect the rights of fisherman and land owners while on your river trip.

Commercial Break
 

Simply Breath taking...
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Must-Have Kayak Accessories

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By: Maeve Rich There are kayak accessories available for a wide range of purposes, from storage accessories to kayak fishing accessories. When choosing kayak accessories, take into consideration the weather, the area where you'll be kayaking and your wants and needs.
A helmet is one of those kayak accessories that is really more of a requirement, depending on where you'll be kayaking. Any conditions near whitewater necessitate protecting your head. A quick flip of the kayak could cause you to hit your head on a rock or on your kayak and be knocked unconscious: not a good thing when you're in water. Similarly, make sure you have a life vest and I attach a whistle to my vest in case of an accident. This should be worn no matter what type of water you're kayaking in.
A spray skirt will keep water out of your kayak. This is great in the ocean as well as whitewater, or anywhere that water gets a bit turbulent. Should water get into your kayak you'll want to have a bilge pump onboard to empty your boat.
Float bags will keep your kayak from sinking should you become separated from it. Float bags are stuffed into open storage spaces of your kayak and keep it from filling with water. Dry bags will keep your gear dry, and should be attached to the inside of your boat.
You may want to purchase a wetsuit if the water you'll be kayaking in is cold. A wetsuit keeps your body warm by allowing a small amount of water in, which your body heats. Dress as though you will going underwater; that way if you do, you'll be prepared.
You should also have equipment on hand in case of an emergency. This may include a compass, GPS, rope bag, knife, radio to call for help and first aid kit.
With all of the kayak accessories out there, weigh your options carefully before purchasing. This is especially true if you're new to the sport and aren't sure what you'll need.

from my home town




my dream (whitewater) boat




and finally a boat for the fishing folks

There are loads of boats - cruise ships, water taxis, speed boats, ferrys etc. Which is why the free kayaking places have you stay between the piers for the most part. And you can't just rent a boat and take off. I've been going with www.manhattankayak.com on 26th and west side hwy for 10+ years, they go out in groups with a guide or two. You can use all their equipment or your own, whichever. Tours range from a short tour up or down ( current changes about every 6 hours so you'd go against on the way out and with the current coming back), or longer one's that involve going for food (always fun - generally timed so you can grab the current both ways), to circumnavigating manhattan. (time it so you're against the current to start, i've gone the other way and after 7-8 hours hitting a wall of current coming around the battery is HELL).

Just be careful crossing the river or a taxi stop, the boats can be on top of you quicker than you expect. Its fun really. :)

This link show's you how to fix a hole in your yak, plastic welding.
There are plenty of write ups on the topic, however a video reference is always good. So, if you ever have a need for a DIY repair, the video will hopefully help.

http://www.teamoceankayak.com/videos/weld/index.html

Tools needed:
Repair/patch plastic (Old pickle buckets make good material)
Dremel
Sauteing Iron

How to make a milk crate cart
Here's is a simple kayak cart I made by incorporating the milkcrate as the frame of the cart. When not used as a cart, the milkcrate can be used as a milkcrate (?) in the tank well. The frame post turns into four rod holders.

The only items you need to stow when you reached your destination is break down the PVC T-cap, the wheels,shaft, two washers, pin and tennis balls.

Here is the material cost:

one - Milk Crate ??
one - 1 1/2 inch x 10 feet PVC pipe $4.29
four -90 degree elbow $0.56 each
four -T-connector $1.29 each
one - 1/2 inch aluminum bar $3.98
two - washer $0.09
two - Cotter pin $0.56
two - 13 1/2 inch plastic wheel $4.00 (or 12 inch with bearing $9.95 each)
one - Strap ??

Total $24.97 (Aug 2007)

The wheels are from Northern Tools, everything else are from HomeDepot.

The plus of the design is that it's a very simple design. It's also simple to build. The 13.5 inch wheel is bigger than anything I've seen out there. You can also cut the shaft longer and put 4 wheels instead of two to give you more stability and to give you the ability to go over soft sand.

The minus of the design is that you do need some tools to cut the PCV pipe, 1/2 drill bit and drill to put holes in the pcv pipe, the side of the crate and the tennis ball, 1/16 inch drill bit for the cotter pin hole in the shaft. You also need pcv cement.

Because the wheels a only about 15 inch apart, it's not as stable as store bought cart but as long as you keep that limitation in mind when you carting the kayak around, you should be ok.

It does well in deep grass. I can go over the curb with a good pull. I have not tested it in deep sand.

NOTE: The wheels on the pictures are the 12 inch wheels. I had since purchased the 13.5 inch wheels. The 12 inch wheels are $9.95 each. The tires are inflatable and there are ball bearings on the shafts. The $4.00 plastic wheels are hard plastic like lawn mower wheels with no bearings.

Videos:
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGSXOoHBpIk"]YouTube - Homemade Milkcrate Kayak Cart (Assembly)[/nomedia]
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNxq3fQAr0M"]YouTube - Milkcrate Kayak Cart Disassembly[/nomedia]
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cVzBcGcq-3o"]YouTube - Milkcrate Kayak Cart - Over the curb test[/nomedia]

Pictures:
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My kayaks are about 12 years old now and the model has changed but they are something like this:

http://www.oceankayak.com/kayaks/sin...aks/caper.html

Only mine are longer. I selected the Ocean kayak for its versatility. I first bought them when I had my place in Key largo and enjoyed ocean, bay, fishing and even took them out camping overnight back in the swamps.

I love fishing with a kayak because its quiet and I can get into tight places. I can carry quite a bit of gear and they are difficult, not impossible, to tip.

Now in southern VA I enjoy lakes and actually did quite a bit of kayaking this past summer. I love being out in the water and not hearing the sound of motors.

One of the best cleaner/protectants out on the market for your yak is called 303 Aerospace Protectant. You don't have to get the whole kit, you can just get the Protectant.
After a long day in the ocean, it's best to run your vehicle and your yak to a power washer car wash. When you get home, open the hatches and plugs and rinse the inside out and let dry.
Usually after 3 or 4 yak trips it's good to use this product. And if you want to keep the scrapes and scratches down you can use surf board wax on the bottom, messy but does help to slide in dirt and sand.

303 Boat Care Kit

have you used this stuff? I might use it on a fiberglass kayak but not on a molded plastic hull which is what many sit on kayaks are. I also use to have a 24 ft Proline and this stuff was awful. Most boat paint today will hold up fine and washed with soap and water. Then maybe once or 3 times a year, for a fiberglass boat only, I'd do a super good wax job with the old fashion stuff.
this is my opinion from someone who has used it.

This is another reason to consider Ocean kayaks and the like. These kayaks have last 12 plus year so far being in the ocean, sun, dragged across the road, you name it. They may not be a good choice for winter northern kayakers because they are open and you will get wet but great for southern summer kayaking.

Thanks for the thread

Love kayaking, and over the years it's where I've gotten some of my favorite photos. I'd be happy to share tips, tricks and products for waterproofing and carrying camera gear. :)

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:)

Really? Wow, I use it on my plastic, it gives it a brilliant shine, especially when the sun here is pounding at 107 in the shade. I use to use Armorall but the salt takes it off in seconds. I can go about a month in a half. I also use it on my Scotty rod holders, makes them look shiney and new again.
But I do agree with you on the Ocean kayaks, there great, only thing I didn't like on the 14' and 16' is to many scuppers to worry about plugging, lol. It's why I am interested in the Coosa, it has a hull plate that can be changed out once it wears out from dragging you yak. I really like that concept.
I guess everyone does have there own likings. Example, most of my friends use a scupper plug, I use the practice foam golf balls to plug my scuppers. As long as your happy, and you paddle hard then life is good no matter what product you use,
Thanks for sharing Sachita. Opinions are good!

By all means, please do share! I love to learn more and more on tips and tricks, and things that work and don't. Thank you for the lovely pictures and looking forward to hearing from you on this thread.