For the love of Kayaking

[Blaze]

Now this is a nice trailer set up, and the gentlemen that rigged this keeps his kayak on it so it's ready to go at any moment. And he can also back up into the ramp for easy off load and on load.

[Blaze]

Ok, remember I was talking about Oyster rash on the bottom of your kayaks? Especially where I paddle. And that's mostly around all shore or island area's here. Example:

Which can look like this after a while, Example



Which made me crave these, Example:

[Blaze]

These are what many Kayaking grouppies use here,
Five fingers

Or Academy has the Fila Skele-Toe shoes which are cheaper.

or Last but very popular are the Crocs:

[Blaze]

Found an interesting site that has lots of info on kayaking. Just wanted to share. http://www.sit-on-topkayaking.com/Articles/ More generalized kayak information that you may want to know.

[Blaze]

I was wasting a bit of time at work and got to think about all the times where I've fished with someone that has turtled, flipped, took a dip, gone overboard.

Not counting the surf flipping the only time I have gone over was in the Houston Ship Channel HSC. It was memorial day and the waves were just wrong, I should not have been there. I got the boat caught in the trough of the waves and over I went. after the initial shock of being in water I'm fishing for sharks in I used the following technique. Belly, Butt, feet. First kick up the belly onto the seat of the yak. This can be hampered by radios, pliers, cameras or whatever you have strapped to your PDF. Then once your belly is on your seat roll over onto your back. Then slide your feet over the front of the boat.

The best video I have seen of this is the following:
[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmaNBXEa"]YouTube - Broadcast Yourself.[/nomedia] ... re=related

Dangers of flipping are: being by yourself (horse is dead), panic, tiring yourself out with poor technique, gear in your way.
Relax, practice before hand, and be safe guys.

This Summer looks like a great Fishing Season!

[Blaze]

I'll begin with the "stroke" and then I'll follow with the information on "feathering"

Like most everthing, proper paddling is about good posture & form...

Sit up straight- with your feet firmly on the foot braces and the foot braces adjusted to where the knees are bent up with about 6" of clearence under the back of the knee. Push your buttocks firmly back into the seat. The preasure from you legs to your butt "connects" you to the boat. With your back straight, bend slightly forward from the waist.


Grip you paddle's shaft even with your shoulders- holding the shaft in front of you- even with your chest. You elbows should be at a right angle(90°)
*Important to Remember- Never let you elbows bend less than 90°. Imagine that you have a beach ball pinned between the paddle's shaft and your chest- keeping you from ever bringing the shaft closer to your chest. Keep those elbows at 90° or greater all the time. This space between your chest and the shaft is also refered to as the "Paddler's Box"
(NEVER "PUMP" THE ARMS/ELBOWS! called the Arm Stroke- BAD)

The stroke begins by rotating at the WAIST with the arms in the Paddler'sBox position. Lean forward and "Catch" the water by your toe. Imagine that you have just stuck the paddle in the ground and you are going to pull the boat up to the paddle's position by rotating at the waist using the muscles in your lower back and waist- NOT YOUR ARMS!
You are not pulling the paddle back through the water...
You are pulling the boat up to the paddle...

The stroke ends when the paddle's blade is even with your hip NEVER BEHIND YOUR HIP!
*Important to Remember- If you end the stroke behind the hip and recover the blade behind the hip- when you lift the blade, you catch water against the face of the blade- thus pulling the boat down to the paddle and slowing the boat from the forward momentum that you just gained in the power faze of the stroke.

Now you repeat the "Catch" by the opposite toe and "Recover" by the opposite hip- all by maintaining the "Paddler'sBox" and rotating at the waist using your lower back and abdomen muscles.

This is called the "Body Stroke".


"FEATHERING" the paddle

Feathering is where we adjust the paddle's blades to where they are at angles to each other- usually it's 60° On two piece paddles, the shaft will usually have two holes where the two pieces come together at the ferrule. If you put the spring button in one hole the blades will be even/straight with each other and if you put the button in the other hole the blades will be at an angle to each other.

Most paddles that are set up for feathering are set up for right-handed people and the normal angle is 60° You can get paddles setup for left-handed people and at different angles like 45° or 90°

The purpose for feathering the blades is so the blade that is out of the water in the "Recovery" position is "slicing" through the wind instead of pushing the flat side of the back of the blade into/through the wind.
Out on the open water this makes a huge difference when paddling around in the wind.

To feather the paddle in the stroke,(right-hand version) the right hand grips the shaft. The right blade should be in the correct position to "catch". The right hand stays in this position on the shaft all the time. The right side makes a catch, then stroke and then on the recovery, the right hand will drop slightly by rotating the wrist slightly down, rotating the shaft to turn the left blade to the correct catch position for the left side.
The left hand never grips the shaft. The right hand rotates the shaft in the left hand from right catch position to left catch position.

The better your body stroke becomes, the more you rotate at the waist, the less you will notice dropping the right wrist in the catch for the left side.

I don't even notice a rotation in the shaft now because of the natural rhythm that I've developed from many years of paddling.

Practice makes perfect!

[Blaze]

Which fishing kayak is the best one for me?

Are you confused about which kayak to buy? All of us have gone through this initial confusion.

There are basically 2 types of kayaks. They are Sit On Tops (SOT) and Sit In Kayaks (SIK). Each type has models that fish well and ones that don't. Before we discuss the merits and differences of each type let's first discuss kayaks for fishing in general. What makes a kayak a good fishing kayak? There are many factors to consider.


The first factor to consider is YOU. What is your height, weight, leg length, and general condition? If you're a big man, there are certain kayaks that you need to look at. If you're a small person getting a kayak that's big and has a 600-pound capacity probably isn't your best choice. Some kayaks suit different body types better than others. All these factors are important.
What vehicle are you going to use to transport your kayak? If you're using the bed of a pickup truck a heavier kayak isn't a problem. If you have a large SUV you have to be conscious of the weight. How will you load and unload your kayak? Can you load in a heavy wind?
Where do you plan on using the kayak? Is it strictly going to be used in fresh water, on lakes, ponds, or large impoundments? Do you plan on using it in saltwater? Do you plan on fishing in the ocean and launching through the surf?
How are you planning on getting the kayak to the water? Can you simply drive it to the water or do you plan on going into areas where you can't use your vehicle to get your kayak to the water? Will you need a kayak cart?
What fishing methods do you like to use? Do you use artificial baits, real bait, or both? Do you use a variety of methods? If you're going to use bait, do you want to use live bait or dead bait? Do you fly fish? The type of gear and the way you fish are going to determine which kayaks are going to better suit your needs.
What type of fisherman are you? Are you strictly a catch and release fisherman, do you like to take the occasional meal home or are you regularly taking fish home?

Now let’s discuss the SOT and SIK kayaks. We'll simply discuss both types and furnish some information so you can decide on which is the better choice for you.

Sit In Kayaks (SIK): These are the traditional type of kayaks. They are similar to canoes in that you sit in the kayak. They offer more initial protection from the elements however they are more exposed in rougher conditions and can fill with water. In bad conditions they're usually used with a skirt. A skirt is a covering that goes around you and the opening in the kayak that prevents water from entering. When a skirt is used you don't have access to the items that are in the kayak.

Sit On Top (SOT): These are the new type of kayak. They're basically modified surfboards and you sit on them rather than inside. They have what are known as scupper holes, which allow water to drain from the kayak compartment. So when water washes over the kayak it briefly floods the cockpit and then drains.

Both types of kayaks allow you to fish and obviously within each type there are models that do this better than others. Many kayaks today are made of plastic. Let's discuss important fishermen needs and how each type of kayak addresses them.

Most people who decide to get a kayak for fishing have never or rarely been in a kayak. They are fishermen that recognized that a kayak would expand their fishing range. This article is based upon this premise and is discussed from this perspective.

Stability: Fishermen do things in a kayak that most people don't do. They fish. Having a stable platform is very important, especially to the person who is new to the sport and kayaks. There are two types of stability initial and secondary.

Initial stability is the side-to-side wobble that you feel when you sit in a kayak.
Secondary stability is when the kayak is nearing its point of flipping and how much forgiveness it has before you flip.


Many recreational kayaks that are used for fishing have great initial stability but have a very abrupt secondary. When they reach their secondary limit you're literally dumped. Conversely there are kayaks that wobble like mad but are very forgiving when they come to the dump point. Since you sit on or near the floor of a SIK they tend to be more stable. In SOTs you sit on the kayak and since it has a double hull you sit higher. This higher sitting position obviously makes a SOT less stable. If you have 2 kayaks that are the same length and width the SIK will usually be more stable. So SOT designers tend to make their kayaks wider to compensate for this.

Initial stability is more important to beginners and secondary stability is more important to seasoned kayakers. The beginner hasn't developed a sense of balance yet. It's a lot like learning how to ride a bicycle. Once you're become accustomed to balancing it’s done unconsciously. After a while it becomes second nature and you don't think about it. Shorter wider kayaks tend to be more stable, but slower as a rule.

Speed: Generally, the longer and narrower a kayak the faster it is. SIKs are usually faster however there are also fast SOTs. Speed is only important if you need it. If the majority of your fishing is close to shore or in small, protected areas, than sacrificing maneuverability for speed isn't the way to go. However if you're fishing a big reservoir, bay, or ocean the ability to cover distance is often very important. A SIK will usually be faster because it is narrower for the same length because of its lower seat position. There are many fast SIKs and some SOTs. The faster SOT kayaks, used for fishing, are known as touring kayaks.

Maneuverability: If you're going to fish in small, tight places you need to be able to maneuver. Some kayaks do this extremely well. Getting back into a small creek or pond and fishing often requires this ability. Both kayak types have models that do this well. Generally the shorter the kayak the better but design does matter.

Kayak Weight: This can be extremely important for many reasons..

Transportation: You need to be able to transport your kayak. Many of us who are fishermen drive SUVs or trucks with caps. So you're going to have to be able to get the kayak on the vehicle then off the vehicle and into the water.

Fishing Logistics: I fish all kinds of environments from large bays and the Gulf but I often fish some very small waters too. A small shallow river or pond is best fished with a small, light kayak because you will need to be able to carry or drag the kayak around, over or through places. A lighter kayak will make this easier. Just getting to the water in some places presents challenges where weight could be important.

Accessory Friendly: Fishermen, take a recreational kayak and make it a fishing vessel. We do this by adding accessories. Some fishermen just take a rod and a few flies or lures along and others like to take lots of gear. Some kayaks accept accessories better than others. It's the addition of accessories that can often dramatically improve the fishing. Lots of flat surfaces are nice for mounting things. On some kayaks it’s simple and you have many choices of where you can mount accessories. Some kayaks require much more thought and limit what you can and can't attach.

Storage: Depending upon how you fish this can be important. You don't need much but a lot depends upon you and where you plan on going and what you plan on taking with you. If you like to use both spin and fly gear then you need to take accessories for both. Some items are universal and some aren't. If you're fishing where you won't be venturing far, you don't need much since you can always go back. Conversely you may be out all day and have a major commitment in travel in getting to the fishing. This will require you to carry more gear. It’s better to have too much storage then too little storage.

Let's talk about different places and ways of fishing both types of kayaks and see the practical uses of each type.

Flats Fishing: One of the best things about a kayak is the access to shallow flats that it provides. There are lots of these types of environments on the Gulf coast. Some flats are shallow. So you're fishing a flat and you'd like to get out and wade fish. There are a few reasons why you may wish to do this.
You've been sitting for a while in the kayak and it’s nice to get out to walk and stretch.
There's a breeze or wind and if you have to control the kayak with your paddle it makes it more difficult to fishing with your hands semi occupied.
By standing you can see better and sometimes this is an advantage.


So you've decided to get out of the kayak. If the water depth is only a foot or so this doesn't present a challenge in either type of kayak. Now let’s see how things change in a couple feet of water with an incoming tide. There's a good chance when you decide to get back into the kayak it could be 3 feet deep. In a SOT you sit on rather than in the kayak so getting in and out is actually getting on and off. It's easy to do. Conversely in a SIK it isn't so simple and your chances of capsizing the kayak are much greater. It's also much more difficult to do. Now imagine that you're wearing waders.

Surf Launches: When you fish the open ocean you often need to launch through the surf to get there. When a wave comes over the bow of a SOT the cockpit briefly fills with water and then it drains. You then get beyond the breakers, go to your fishing destination. Should a wave knock you off of your kayak you're just off. Knee braces can attach you to the kayak and can make a difference in larger surf. Conversely a SIK needs a skirt to go through even moderate surf. Otherwise it will fill with water and it doesn't have the ability to drain. So you go through the surf and you misjudge and a wave flips you. If you’re on a SOT, you simply fall off and go retrieve the kayak. In a SIK you are in the kayak and should you flip none of the consequences are good. In the very least you have a kayak full of water and in the worst scenario you're upside down and still in the yak with your gear bouncing around in the surf . When a SIK flips the popular idea is to do an Eskimo roll. That's OK if you're in calm water's with a narrow kayak but a SIK that is used for fishing is often wider and doesn't roll well in the surf or in shallow water.

Shallow Rivers: A kayak will take you into so many environments that are difficult if not impossible to reach via any other means. Sometimes you can paddle and at times you need to drag the kayak up, around or through objects. It’s much easier to get off of a kayak rather than out of one if you're doing it a lot. The more you find yourself leaving the kayak the more you will appreciate a SOT.

Keeping Fish: If you like to take fish home than you need a place to keep your catch. If its smaller fish this isn't a big deal but if the fish are big it is. In a SIK it's either in the cockpit or on a stringer. A stringer is OK in freshwater areas where you don't need to travel very far. A stringer full of fish provides drag and isn't good if you need to cover distance. In some places it can attract predators. In the south you have to be concerned with alligators and in the salt its sharks. A tank well is the best place to keep fish. Sot’s come with and without a tank well (the depression in the back of some SOTs). You can either place a cooler in the tank well or strap it on behind the seat. Many SOTs come with tank wells so if you regularly bring home dinner a SOT could be a better choice.

Now that we discussed some basic ideas it is up for you to decide which kayak you want. You need to decide what you think the best is for you THEN call some of the local dealers in your area and see what types of kayaks they have; then go out and paddle the different kayaks and see how they handle for you. Some stores have a pool or water close to the store where you can go and demo the kayaks.

Now that you have found the perfect kayak for you; you will need to figure out how to rig your kayak to best fit your needs. ALL OF US HAVE OUR OWN OPNION ON WHAT IS THE BEST KAYAK AND WAY TO RIG IT. I recommend that you know what you want before letting anyone rig your kayak for you because there is no way they know what is perfect for you. You will not know till you have fished a while and you will continue to change the longer you fish.

There are pictures of rigged fishing kayaks and good articles on rigging and other ways to improve your yak and your fishing experience on our site.

We have a great group of people that will help you. Your question has probably been asked before so use the search feature and read, then asks your questions. Remember we all made that first post. Never be a fraid to post on this board. FROM THE WELCOME TO THE TKF BOARD

JimD

[Blaze]

Hooked - a true story
“Anything that can go wrong, will” –Murphy

This was never as true than on a day when I was fishing with a couple of friends. Here’s a short synopsis of what went wrong on a very windy day. More importantly as you read this, I’d like you to imagine the situation and how it could have been avoided, and imagine how it could have been worse, had the individual been by himself with no one around to help.

I’ll give a lead-in, so his story, as I’ll be quoting it from a post he made on the Message board, will make more sense.

We all decided to head in as the wind that day was a bit too much for us. Three of us hit the shore, only to find one was still out in the water (deep water), and we noticed he was not in his kayak! Here is his story. I’ll call it...

Hooked


I learned several lessons yesterday, the hard way. Richard suggested that I post a message for all our fellow kayakers to read and hopefully learn a lesson the easy way.
The first lesson is to have a healthy respect for a hung anchor in a kayak. My anchor was hung solid on the bottom (in deep water) so I decided to paddle over the top and past the anchor to give it a tug from the upwind side and hopefully free it up. Paddling upwind I had enough momentum that when the anchor rope tightened, combined with the wave action, it capsized me instantaneously with no warning whatsoever. This was not so bad in it self, the following turn of events is what really put me in a fix. As I turned the kayak back over I had a plastic box with several lures in it that had come open during the capsize, setting the top water lures adrift and sending the others to the bottom. While attempting to retrieve the topwater lures I managed to embed a hook from a super spook past the barb in my right pointer finger. At this point I realized that the situation was going south rapidly so I pulled the tab to inflate my SOSpenders. Then I managed to get the other hook on the super-spook caught in my windbreaker up around my left shoulder. By this time I'm beginning to feel like Tim Conway in the skit as the dentist when he shot himself in several places with Novocain until he was almost completely disabled. But fortunately things started looking up. There were 3 guys in a powerboat not far away that saw I was having a bit of trouble and came over and ask if they could help. When you have your right hand pinned to left shoulder you are ready for someone to offer a helping hand. I don't know if I told those guys thank you enough. My first request was for some wire cutters but they had none to offer. They helped me into their boat and towed my kayak to the beach where James and Richard were there to help me regain use of my right hand (by the way the anchor was still hung and the guys in the power boat were barely able to pull it up). Richard was able to push the hook the rest of the way through and cut the barb off and take the hook out. Being near the finger tip where all those nerve endings are this was not without a degree of pain. I am however grateful for all the help. It could have been worse. The lessons I learned and would pass on to anyone interested are:

1. Exercise extreme caution with a hung anchor (especially in deep water).
2. Make sure the method you use for storing lures is secure at all times.
3. Have on hand a reliable means of cutting a hook loose.
4. Whenever you are fishing alone (which thankfully I wasn't today). Be extra cautious because you may have to deal with some bizarre unforeseen situations by yourself, if you are the least bit careless. Fish with a partner whenever you can.

Here are a couple of others I should relay to you:

Wear your PFD! Not having it on in this case would have been bad.

Have a signaling device such as a loud whistle, hanging around your neck, as it won’t do you a bit of good anywhere else.

[Dominique]

Good story!

We teach, wear your PFD ALL of the time and attach the whistle and a rescue rope to your PFD.

Thats why they are called accidents.

[Blaze]

Wow, I think I just found my newest love...

I soooooooooo want one of these! here is the link http://www.nucanoe.com/frontier/

[Blaze]

These are awesome rough water photo's!

[Blaze]

Kayaking Tips & Tricks
By Tom Watson

Since paddling season is still with us for a while, here is an assortment of paddling/gear tips that are quick and easy and can extend your enjoyment on the water.

Fixing frayed ends on deck lines.
Larger rope can be "whipped" by wrapping the fraying ends with a thinner, but strong, durable line. You can also melt the end of nylon or plastic rope to keep ends from fraying. Another handy way, and one that works on nylon strap ends, too, is to dip the end in that liquid rubber stuff used to re-coat tools. It’s available at most hardware stores. You dip the end into the coating, let it harden and, voila, you have a durable and non-fraying end. If you use this on straps, soak about 1" of the strap end in and then wipe or scrape off the excess. Enough will penetrate the fibers to make a tough "tongue" end that easily slips through the buckle. If you don’t wipe the end free of excess goop, it’ll be too thick to thread through the buckle slot.

Versatile knot for deck line.
Most kayaks now come with a 5mm nylon deck line that can be used to secure your boat to a dock or to an object on shore (it’s NOT for towing!). I prefer a larger diameter line about 20 feet long and I tie an eight-inch bowline knot to the end. I can then make a quick loop around a rock on shore or toss it over a piling on a dock. It’s also a handy grab line, especially if it’s a floatable line. I usually secure it to the bow, run it back, coil the end and stuff it under a bungee cord forward of the cockpit. The bowline is a convenient "handle" and makes it easy to create an even larger loop to drop over a large log or boulder on shore.
Reflecting Tape.
A past article suggested many uses of reflective tape: The back of paddles, along the extrusion line, on the bow/stern – anywhere you want extra visibility.
Signal Whistles
Need to shout? Save your voice, carry a whistle with you at all times. Buy several and put them in several places in your gear, in your clothing, but NEVER attach it to the zipper on your PFD! It’s unsafe and marks you as a major rookie!
All-in-One Flying Disc Tool
I still refer to all flying discs as a Frisbee™. It’s a multi-use camp tool: cutting board, wind block, fire fan, foot rest on wet ground, signaling device if it has reflective tape on back side. So many options! (More on Flying Disc uses)
Dry Bag Paradox – a dry bag keeps things dry, as they should. However, if you put just one little item inside a dry bag that contains moisture – it will cause everything in that “dry” bag to become damp! Make sure what goes in the dry bag is dry!
Bright colors for safety
Whenever you are buying gear such as clothing, tarps, bags, etc. choose bright colors. They can double as a signaling flag – bright orange, yellow, ‘lectric lime are best. Red is not visible over long distances.(More on colors)

Duct Tape – Don’t leave home without it! Period!
Take a kelp bed break
Native paddlers would "park" in a kelp bed to rest while on open/big water trips. Use your paddle to scoop up a frond and drape it across your fore deck. Do this with a couple of fronds on both sides to stabilize your boat and hold it in place. The kelp, attached to the bottom, hugs your boat while also buffering currents and wave action. Natives could actually sleep while parked this way.
Shoot a bearing the night before
If you tend to overnight on islands or across channels and don’t tend to carry a chart, decide where you want to reach the other shoreline, and take a bearing the night before when you can still see. Then if the morning fog obscures your view, you already have a reliable bearing to guide you to your desired end point on the other side.
Don’t fight a quartering wind
A quartering wind without a rudder assist can be easier and reduce weathercocking by tilting your kayak into the wind using your downwind knee. Lift up with your knee and trim the boat slightly as you continue on your desired course and the kayak will tend not to turn into the wind so much.
Make beach signals BIG!
Everything looks smaller from the air. To make emergency signals large enough to be readily seen think 1:5 ratio where "1" is at least 3 feet wide. That means letters or symbols should be at least 15 feet long to stand out to the observer moving overhead.
Need a quick, loud signal? Make a kelp horn
Bull kelp has that big floating bulb at the end of a hollow tube. Cut the bulb off about 10 inches up the stem and then cut off the end one-third of the bulb making a bugle-like horn. Pucker up and blow! It takes practice and a lot of slime on the lips, but it’s loud!
Break-away fish stringer
Kayak fishing has been a popular topic this summer. Attach your stringer with a slip knot or other “break-away” option. It should be strong enough to resist the fish tugs, but if a sea lion sees your catch dangling below your boat – splash! I almost had it happen – trust me!
Barbless hooks
Things happen pretty fast when fishing from a kayak. To help release fish quickly, for either catch-and-release, or a quick drop into the boat, consider pinching the barbs smooth on your hooks. It makes removing them easy – and adds a bit of a challenge while retrieving the catch as well. Barbless is also much quicker and less painful to remove should you catch yourself!

Cheat Sheet for Ground-to-Air/Emergency Signals
To remember which ground to air signal or other emergency signal means what, write them on a piece of gear you’ll always have with you. The inside of your PFD, for example, is a good place to use a laundry marker to jot down those handy signals people use in distress communications. Do you carry that flying disc with you? If so, write helpful reminder notes inside it as well.
Big binoc’s for a steadier view
Sure, tiny, compact binoculars seem more suited for kayaking, but they tend to bob and move around so much its hard to use them effectively. Instead, go for the bigger, heavier models - just use a flexible strap – it eases the stress and tension on your neck. Heavier binoc’s are easier to steady and use in a bobbing kayak. It’s a good trade-off in my book. (More on binoc's)
Short strap on cameras/binoc’s
A shorter strap around your neck means what’s tethered on the other end won’t hang down into that pool of water in your spray skirt nor will it swing down and into that tide pool you are bending over.
Several good pieces of gear have been sacrificed to gain this knowledge. Also, when the "light" comes on and one finds a better way to do something, it’s good to share. Hope some of these work well for you. Safe paddling.

Tom Watson, an avid sea kayaker and freelance writer is also the author of "How to Think Like A Survivor" currently available on Amazon.com and most major bookstores.

[Blaze]

Wonderful site: For starters http://www.smart-start-kayaking.com/

[chefhmboyrd]

i love to kayak.....
i am a total newbie, but it is so much fun.

[Blaze]

Seeking opinions on the following:

- Is it advisable to fish the surf if its flat? (rip tides, currents etc. have any effect?)

Do you know your way out of the currents/rip tides if you fell in? If not, don't do it. If you do and it isn't difficult, go for it.

- Advice on crossing a cut that connects the gulf with the intercoastal, Such as Mitchells Cut in Sargent.

They're not all the same. I would go through SLP but I wouldn't try to go through Rollover ever. The tighter the pass, the faster and more turbulent the water is. I'm sure plenty of white water yakkers could fly through Rollover but I'll leave that for them.

- Fishing a lake where there is alot of deep water

I think more people have drowned in shallow water than deep water. I wouldn't be concerned with depth so much as distance from shore.

- Encountering a barge or large boat while in the Intercoastal

Don't fish in the ICW. They will cuss you out from a quarter mile away and everyone will hear it. Ask my brother in-law. Just be aware of what's going on around you. My wife caught a huge wake off a barge when she was fishing a drain that came from behind her. She was in less than 2 feet of water but this swell lifted her to where I saw the entire bottom of her yak from behind her. Your best bet is to turn into wakes just like in the surf. Never let them come at your side.

These are just some quick things that come to mind. As far as what safety/tips i am familiar with, I know to:
-wear a PFD
-Dont go out alone
-Less equipment is easier all around
-Know what my limits are(which i am trying to figure out)

Don't forget a whistle, they're required. You need a 360 light if you go out at night or before first light. If you really want to find out what you can handle, leave the fishing stuff at home and just go paddle. Falling out doesn't suck if you don't lose anything. It's also when you discover you need a paddle leash. Having a VHF radio is nice incase of an emergency but we mostly use them to let each other know if we find fish.

[Blaze]

PFD Basics

How Many PFDs Do I Need?

You must have at least one, U.S. Coast Guard approved, wearable PFD for each person onboard, and it must be the appropriate size. If your boat is 16 feet or longer (generally excluding canoes and kayaks but check your state's regulations) you must also have one throwable device (Type IV PFD).

What kind of PFD do I need?

PFDs are categorized by Type, i.e. Type I, II, III, IV or V. Types I, II and III are commonly worn by recreational boaters, while Type IVs are throwable devices such as life rings and buoyant cushions. Type Vs are for special uses, as will be discussed later.


Type I


Type II


Type III


Type IV


Type V

When considering a Type I, II or III - remember that, generally, the lower the number the better the performance. (A Type I is better than a Type II.)

Types I, II or III may be inherently buoyant, that is, they will float without action by the wearer, or they may be inflatable (oral and manual inflation at a minimum), or a combination of both (hybrid). Currently, all USCG approved inflatable PFDs are Type IIIs with manual inflation.

Select a PFD based upon your planned activities and the water conditions you expect to encounter.

Type I
Offshore Life Jacket Type II
Near-shore Buoyant Vest Type III
Flotation Aid
Best for open, rough or remote water, where rescue may be slow-coming. Good for calm or inland water, or where there is a good chance of fast rescue Good for conscious users in inland water and where there is good chance of fast rescue.
Advantages Floats you the best
Turns most unconscious wearers face-up in water

Highly visible color

Turns some unconscious wearers face-up in the water
Less bulky, more comfortable than Type I

Generally the most comfortable type for continuous wear
Designed for general boating or the activity that is marked on the device

Available in many styles, including vests and flotation coats

Disadvantages Bulky Not for long hours in rough water
Will not turn some unconscious wearers face-up

Wearer may have to tilt head back to avoid going face down
Not for extended survival in rough water; a wearer's face may often be covered by waves

All wearers need to try it in water prior to going boating

Inflatables: Inflatables: Some brands are now approved. Be sure to check for USCG approval. Type III Inflatables: Will keep many unconscious wearers face-up after inflation, but must be regularly inspected and re-armed to be reliable. Inflatables are not for non-swimmers, or for long hours in rough water. Inflatables are not for use where high speed impact is likely to occur.


Type IV
Throwable Device Type V
Special Use Device
Advantages: Can be thrown to someone.
Are good backup to wearable PFDs.

More convenient or useful for specific activities.
Continuous wear prevents being caught without protection. Most accidents happen suddenly and unexpectedly.

Disadvantages: Not for unconscious person, non-swimmers or children.
Not for many hours in rough water.

Less safe than other Types if not used according to label conditions.
May be better suited to cool climates or seasons.

Some Type Vs are approved only when worn. If marked this way, they are required to be worn to be counted as a regulation PFD.

Notes: Kinds: Cushions, rings and horseshoe buoys. Hold to chest and put arms through opposite straps. Performance: Equal to either Type I, II or III performance as noted on the label.
Related Articles:

[Blaze]

Gear Checklist for Sea Kayaking
Basic List for Day Trips
Boat & Gear
___ kayak w/ bulkheads or flotation
bags
____paddle
___ spare paddle
___ PFD
___ whistle
___ pump (with float)
___ spray skirt
___ flares
___ tow rope
___ paddle float
___ headlamp or waterproof
flashlight
___ waterproof strobe
___ rescue sling
___ VHF radio
___ extra battery
___ first aid kit
___ wetsuit
___ pogies
___ chart
___ chart case
___ compass
___ tide tables
___ weather radio
___ binoculars
___ rescue knife (on PFD)
___ waterproof watch
___ dry bags
___ repair kit
Clothing for Paddling
___windbreaker
___windpants
___wool, fleece, or neoprene socks
___synthetic long underwear
___synthetic (quick-drying) shorts or bathing suit
___fleece jacket or wool sweater
___hat(s) to provide protection from rain, wind,
cold
___sandals, watershoes, or old sneakers that can
get wet
___ fingerless gloves
Personal Items:
___sunglasses
___sunhat
___ sunscreen
___water bottles
___snacks
___lunch
___strap for glasses (if needed)
___allergy medicine (if needed)
___medications (if needed)
___waterproof(ed) camera (optional)
___other:__________________________
___other:__________________________
___other:__________________________
___other:__________________________
___other:__________________________
___other:__________________

[Blaze]

Kayak Touring Safety Checklist and Precautions
Kayak touring can be a rewarding activity if you have adequate paddling and navigational skills for the trip you are doing, if you are using sound equipment that is suitable for the paddling conditions you anticipate, and if you use common sense and take certain precautions. It is an activity that demands sound judgment and caution. This is always the case, no matter how experienced you are.

The following information outlines basic equipment needs and precautions for paddling. It is meant solely as an outline of reminders for experienced paddlers and does not purport to be a teaching or learning tool.

Equipment Checklist

Before you launch, always make sure you have the following:

kayak in good condition
plenty of secure buoyancy (inflated float bags or dry bags filled with gear) in bow and stern
sturdy paddle
paddle leash or tether
spray skirt that fits you and your kayak
lifejacket or personal flotation device (PFD) and whistle
paddling clothing suitable for the weather conditions and the water temperature
sea sock
bilge pump
accessible signaling device such as flares
self-rescue aids such as a paddle float
accessible spare paddle (minimum of 1 per group)
compass
maps and charts in waterproof chart case
water bottle
In any but the most benign conditions, also consider:

flashlight or headlamp (even if you are only planning a daytime trip)
sun hat and sunscreen
rain gear and extra clothing in a waterproof bag
tow line - 25 feet or longer
knife or multi-purpose tool
waterproof matches or lighter
first aid kit
tide and current tables, if appropriate
VHF marine radio or weather radio
Basic Precautions

The greatest danger to sea kayakers paddling in cold water is HYPOTHERMIA. Cold water kills! Learn about hypothermia. Dress appropriately. Consider a wetsuit or drysuit with adequate insulating garments when paddling in cold water. Dress for the water temperature, not the air temperature.

Thoroughly familiarize yourself with your boat. Make sure you can pop off the spray skirt and wet exit the kayak. This is especially important with new gear or equipment you are unfamiliar with. Remember, if you are using unfamiliar equipment, it may handle in a different manner than the equipment you are accustomed to.

Always wear your PFD and use your sprayskirt. Weather and water conditions can change quickly. If your sprayskirt is stashed in the kayak and your PFD is lashed to the deck, it will likely be too difficult to put them on when you need them.

Avoid paddling alone

Make a habit of carrying safety equipment. It will be easier to carry if you store it in one waterproof bag.

Leave a float plan. Let someone know where you're putting in, where you plan to take out, and when you plan to return. Leave a full description of your car.

Get a weather forecast each day you are out. Continually check the weather during your trip.

Use the proper equipment. Be sure you are using equipment for the purpose for which it was designed.

Know the principles of navigation and seamanship.

In warm weather or in the tropics, be aware of dehydration and heat exhaustion. Carry plenty of potable water and keep a quart bottle within easy reach. Carry buffered salt tablets.

Special notes for novices

Start gradually in moderate weather, close to shore, with an experienced companion. Experiment with strong winds only when they are blowing toward shore.

Develop your paddling skills, including turning and bracing.

Learn and practice a self-rescue method appropriate for you and your boat, including deep-water re-entry.

Practice a group rescue so you can help others.

Read all you can on the subjects of sea kayaking, weather, oceanography and cold water survival.

PRECAUTIONARY NOTES

Make sure you are familiar with how to deal with the following situations that can occur in open water. Consult local experts or available literature for additional information on these important subjects.

WEATHER

Wind

Avoid paddling on windy days, especially when whitecaps are visible, until you thoroughly appreciate the effect of winds on the water and kayak handling.

Wind can:

1) upset a kayak and make it difficult to re-enter

2) blow your kayak away from you after an upset

3) create unmanageable waves

4) prevent you from holding a course

5) slow you down or stop you

6) make it difficult to turn

Fog

Fog can result in sudden and total disorientation. You will need a compass, but you may gain some orientation from sounds of beach surf, bells, fog horns, etc., as well as from steady wave and wind direction.

CURRENTS

You will encounter two principal types of current on the sea: reversing tidal current and continuous ocean current.

Strong current can aggravate conditions caused by adverse weather, particularly when current and wind are opposing. The sheer force of their flow can also cause difficult eddy and wave conditions even on calm days.

Precautions:

1. Read your chart to help identify danger points.

2. Use any available information to estimate favorable current, and time your passage or crossing for that period.

3. Paddle in current under controlled conditions to familiarize yourself with its effect.

4. Exercise caution when the current and wind direction oppose each other.

TOPOGRAPHY

Topography affects wind and water conditions in shallows, beach surf, headlands, cliffs and river mouths.

Shallows: Waves become steeper and break heavily on shallows. Avoid those areas when waves are large or strong currents are forced to flow over them.

Surf: Waves become steeper and break on beaches and shoals. Avoid landing in surf with a loaded kayak. Avoid surf on rocky beaches.

Headlands: Conditions are frequently more difficult off headlands with increased wind (funneling), accelerated current, and re-bound waves. Seas become chaotic.

Cliffs: Cliffs limit landing sites and can cause chaotic rebounding wave conditions.

River mouths: Difficult wave conditions occur when a river outflow runs against the waves.

PEOPLE HAZARDS

Watch for powerboats, ships, tugboats with barges, sailboats, all other watercraft and float planes. Make yourself visible and never assume you have been seen or have the right of way. Cross shipping lanes only at right angles and do so quickly. Never underestimate the speed of large ships.

LAKE PADDLING

With the exception of the tides, large lakes pose most of the difficulties and dangers of the sea. Waves, however, are steeper and more likely to break than on the sea.

RIVER PADDLING

Sea kayaks are often used on slow-moving rivers that are relatively free of obstructions and significant hydraulics. The main current is always going downstream, but eddies along the shore and behind obstacles create a situation where a localized current is going upstream. Crossing the eddyline between the main current and the localized current in an eddy can result in an upset if a paddler is not prepared for the immediate change in current direction.

Summary

The basis of safe sea kayaking is sound judgment, self-responsibility and technical competence. Join a club, take a class, read books and/or consult local experts to learn all you need to know about the sport.

Have a great time paddling!

[Sachita]

These are my kayaks. I've had them well over 10 years. I bought them back when i had my place down in Key largo, FL. I use to take them in the back country waters and fish for snapper and snook. Once I caught a big ass snooker and he actually pulled in that kayak.

But I also like these now that up north, however water does come into the kayak, which helps keep its balance and why ocean kayaks are hard to tip. But if you want to kayak in spring and fall you need a wet suit.

[Blaze]

Compact waterproof digital cameras like Pentax Optio W-series (WP, WPi, W10, W20, W30) or Olympus SW-series (720, 770) are popular among paddlers. They may not offer the highest image quality among point-and-shoot cameras, but they still produce decent pictures. Most importantly, you can photograph in conditions where other cameras are better kept in a dry case or box. However, shooting on water from a kayak or canoe requires some extra efforts and practice from a paddling photographer.



I have been sharing my experience with Pentax Optio WP and W10 in this blog for a while. Please check the links below. Here is another list of tips which comes to my mind in the response to the above e-mail:

1. Use the automatic mode
I do not have any special settings for my camera. On water I use exclusively the P (program) mode. Of course, in addition to the P mode I use the movie mode and interval drive mode quite often.
You can program the green button to do useful adjustments without a need to go through a setup menu. I am using two functions assigned to the green button: exposure correction and, much less often, white balance setups. Typically, I underexpose my shots to avoid overexposed areas with wash out details. Coincidentally, it shortens the exposure time which helps to avoid blurry pictures, but this is not a main purpose of this adjustment.


2. Keep the camera steady
This is the most important tip. However, it is not so easy when paddling, especially, when water is not calm. Ideally, you should hold the camera in both hands. In addition, it is quite easy to shake the light and small camera just by pressing a shutter button.

3. Use a paddle shaft to stabilize the camera
Here is a short video clip demonstrating how I am doing it. This technique really helped me when I was starting to paddle a tippy Sisson Nucleus kayak. You can achieve two goals: to stabilize the camera and to stabilize your kayak. You have your paddle ready for bracing. This technique does not work with strong, gusty winds.
You can go further with this idea and attach or mount your the camera more permanently to your paddle - see a camera cradle by Mark Sanders.


4. Use a self timer
The 2 second selftimer available in Pentax Optio is very useful to avoid shaking the camera when pressing the shutter button. I recommend it, especially, when you are holding the camera with one hand (shooting on an extended arm or from some unusual angles).

5. Keep your lens clean of condensation, water drops, water residue
I keep my camera in a small neoprene pouch attached to my life jacket and usually do not have problems with water or dirt on my lens. The camera is always on a tether. Shooting with a camera mounted on a deck and exposed to splashes is another story.

6. Pay attention to light and sun position
Try to shade you camera lens from a direct sunlight to avoid a lens flare. Do not shoot against the sun.
You can expect the best "sweet" light for shooting when the sun is low, so after the sunrise and before sunset. Do not expect too much from this camera in low light conditions, but do not give up with shooting as soon as the sun is down. Consider shooting some silhouettes or water reflections then.


7. Use flash
I use flash to add some light to objects in my fore plan. Usually, a soft flash option works better for a kayak deck.

8. Shoot multiple frames
Don't limit yourself to a single shot for a given scene. Repeat the shot. Try different angles, horizontal and vertical format. You will increase your chances to get that great shot. Digital memory is cheap. You can always erase unsuccessful pictures later.



9. Photoshop ...
Downloading pictures from the camera to your computer is not the end of your work as a photographer. Use Photoshop or other image editing software to post process your pictures. Most often, I rotate my pictures to make horizon horizontal, adjust the exposure with levels, crop and resize them, and, finally, apply some sharpening. You cannot save completely blurred pictures in Photoshop, but you can improve most of them.

10. Practise
There are no reason not to take and use the camera wherever you go. It is small and waterproof. Experiment and have fun.
Time to to time it is useful to browse through the camera manual. You may find something new and exciting in a jungle of all these options and settings.


More tips?
Could you share tips from your experience with a kayak or canoe photography? Are your on water pictures worse than these shot on land?

Related posts:

Pentax Optio W20 Waterproof Camera Review, Tips, and Sample Photos
Kayak Photography: Using Your Paddle to Stabilize the Camera - Video Clip
7 Tips on Kayak Photography: How Did You Shoot It?
No Viewfinder? 10 Tips on Shooting Pictures without Viewfinder
Is Pentax Optio W10/W20 the Paddler's Camera? Many Boats, Many Cameras ...
Kayak Photography Links - Tips and Hints for Paddling Photographers