For the love of Kayaking

[Blaze]

Kayaks are ideal for wildlife photography
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With their ability to glide silently through the water and access places that are difficult to reach on foot, kayaks are an ideal vehicle for wildlife photographers. In a kayak, photographers are able to observe and capture images of animals on shore or in the water without placing themselves in danger or disrupting the natural habitat. Because of the obvious dangers of water to expensive camera equipment, approach kayak photography carefully; preparation and attention to safety will make for smooth paddling and a successful photo session.
Step 1
Choose a wide, stable kayak. The greater the width of a kayak, the less likely it is to tip or wobble on the water, which reduces the likelihood of camera shake and water damage. Select a kayak with a wide opening to allow easy access to your camera and equipment, and choose a wide seat for comfort during hours of waiting for the perfect shot. Keep in mind that kayaks that are ideal for photography are not necessarily built for speed but have lower price tags--look for recreational models such as the Old Town Otter or Dirigo models, which are wide and lightweight. Avoid sit-on-top models, which are more likely to tip.
Step 2
Practice paddling without the camera. If you are a novice kayaker, spend some time in your kayak before setting out with expensive photography gear. Experiment in different water conditions to gauge responsiveness, tracking, ease of turning and maneuverability in high winds and waves. The more comfortable you are with your kayak, the easier it will be to control both the boat and the camera.
Step 3
Protect your gear and yourself. To ensure that your expensive camera and lenses do not suffer damage from sea spray or capsizing, invest in high-quality, waterproof cases. Aquapac makes cases that are waterproof and allow you to shoot through a clear plastic screen. Some have neck or wrist straps and come in models that fit everything from point-and-shoot cameras to professional SLR cameras. Pelican's hard cases are excellent for safe storage of lenses and camera bodies when they are not in use. Hard cases can be strapped to the decking strips on the bow of the kayak or stored between your legs. Always wear a personal flotation device and use a paddle leash, and stash an extra paddle in your kayak.
Step 4
Plan your route. Although you will happen upon unexpected photo opportunities as you paddle, it is helpful to have a general idea of a route and the shoreline geography. This is particularly important in case conditions change rapidly and you need to put in quickly. Visit your local DNR office for maps and for help identifying spots where wildlife are likely to gather.
Step 5
Locate an ideal vantage point and prepare to wait. The key to great land-based wildlife photos is patience; the same goes for shooting from a kayak. As you paddle, look for a spot with a clear view of the shore. In windy conditions, you might need to drop a small anchor or find a tree or rock to keep your kayak from moving. In calm waters, simply paddle to an ideal spot and adjust position occasionally to account for drifting.
Step 6
Shoot with lenses and filters that are appropriate for the conditions. The Canadian Nature Photographer website recommends an F2.8 70-200mm lens with auto focus and vibration technologies for wildlife photography. The site also recommends that you "Protect the front of your lens from water and salt spray with a UV or polarizing filter." The filters will also reduce water reflections.
Step 7
Use the fastest shutter speed possible based on your desired aperture and ISO speed--anything less than 1/60th of a second will likely be too slow. A quick shutter speed is necessary to account for inevitable kayak vibrations and to capture wildlife on the move. Vivid Light Photography recommends that you keep subjects level in the frame and use your body as a brace to reduce shake.
Fish & Wildlife Programwww.APUS.edu
Environmental Science Degree with aFocus on Fish & Wildlife Management
Canon Project Imaginationwww.youtube.com/Imagination
Watch the Final Film 'when you findme' Inspired by Canon User Photos.
Kayaking Yellowstonewww.geyserkayak.com
Explore The Beauty Of YellowstoneWith a Custom Guided Sea Kayak Tour
Canoeing And Kayakingwww.OutwardBound.org
Life-Changing Canoeing Adventures.Sign Up for a Free Catalog Today!
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Things Needed
Kayak
Camera
Waterproof case
Personal flotation device
Paddle leash
Extra paddle
Location map
Tips & Warnings
Bring adequate food and water for long trips
Use a hat and sunscreen to reduce glare and increase comfort
References
The Canadian Nature Photographer: How to Take Photographs from a Kayak
Vivid Light Photography: The Joys of Kayaking and Photography
Resources
Old Town Recreation Kayaks
Aquapac Waterproof Camera Cases
Pelican Waterproof Camera Cases
About the Author
Elizabeth Smith has been a scientific and engineering writer since 2004. Her work has appeared in numerous journals, newspapers and corporate publications. A frequent traveler, she also has penned articles as a travel writer. Smith has a Bachelor of Arts in communications and writing from Michigan State University.

[Blaze]

PHOTOGRAPHY WHILE KAYAKING
Photo Tips
*Fill the view finder with your subject. Resist the temptation to take those shots where you have to point to the print and declare that the tiny black spot is not just a speck of dust. Either get closer to the action, choose a longer focal length, or just enjoy the moment and look for a better opportunity.

*Photography is not target practice. Do not automatically center the subject in every picture. Instead use the "rule of thirds" for composing most of your shots. This means placing prominent elements 1/3 in from the edge of the viewfinder.

*Wood kayaks can be devilishly difficult to photograph well. That nice glossy layer of varnish between the camera and the wood is trying to reflect every light colored object in the area, including the sky. The solution is to use a polarizing filter. In fact, this filter is useful for most outdoor photography taken during the middle of the day. Want to make those tropical plants in Hawaii look lusciously green, clouds pop from the sky, or the rainbow over Seattle look more intense? Then reach for the polarizing filter.
*The best time of day for great photos is often around sunrise and sunset. This is due to more even lighting containing warm, rich colors. Neither film nor digital camera sensors can handle harsh, high contrast light as well as the human eye and people naturally react more positively to warm colors.

*You don't have to make people face into the the bright midday sun and squint. Give them a break by putting the sun behind them and use a flash to add light to their faces. If you have a camera that can add just enough light (called "fill" flash) to reduce the shadows, by all means use it. This technique is also useful in shady forests scenes with spotty sunshine.

*Unless there are dramatic clouds, avoid capturing overcast skies in your photos. Instead use your time to get up close to your subjects (e.g. people, flowers, or animals).

*Simplify the background. Complex backgrounds are distracting. Choose a different angle, put a dark prop in the background, get closer, choose a longer lens, or use a very large aperture to blur the background.
Use motion blur (and a tripod) to soften moving water and make the shoreline or shoreline objects stand out.

*Emphasize action using motion blur. Use a slow shutter speed to blur the background and pan with your subject to provide some sharpness for the subject and help it stand out. Another method is to again use a slow shutter speed combined with a flash to isolate the subject from the background.

*Shooting a kayak photo against a dark cliff or band of fir trees often results in the kayak being horribly overexposed if I let the camera's meter do it's thing. For this situation, set your camera to underexpose by one f-stop or more if your subject (i.e. kayak) does not fill most of the screen. When my camera gives me the choice, I prefer to use a spot meter to set the exposure rather than guess at how much to underexpose.

*Photos of people, animals, and flowers usually look better when taken in diffused light. A bright thin overcast is often the best condition for taking these photos.

*Get the camera to eye level with your subject. Let's face it, how your kids' hair is parted is not that interesting. As adults we don't like getting down on the ground, but that's the secret.
Try unusual viewpoints, either exceptionally low or high. Shoot straight down off a pier or get in the water and put your camera one inch above the surface.

*Take vertical format shots once in a while. They look nice hanging on the wall.
Believe it or not, cloudless skies and sunsets are not all that interesting. In fact, many photos that include the sky benefit from nice clouds.(example)
Emphasize the subject by using a telephoto at a wide aperture (e.g. f2.8) to minimize the depth of field. This will blur the background and help the subject stand out.

*Equipment Choices and Techniques
In photography there is an old saying "f8 and be there". Choose a camera that will always be ready to capture the magic moments that make great photos. On the water this often means having an easily operated water resistant camera. A camera stuffed in a dry bag usually misses out. While there are many cameras to chose from having an overflowing abundance of features, many of those features are useless on the water or the ergonomics are so poor that they might as well not exist. Look for optically sharp lenses, optically fast lenses, shutters with no time lag, and spot metering or easily adjusted exposure compensation.

*I find a zoom lens of about 35mm to 135mm to be the most useful. Compositions on the water change quickly and there is often little time to adjust position or change lenses. Anything longer than 135 mm is difficult to hold still enough to get a sharp image, especially with point and shoot lenses which tend to be very slow at their longest focal length. Anything wider than 35mm makes it hard to get the bow of your own boat out of the picture.

*It's nice to have both a waterproof point and shoot camera for fast or wet action and an SLR for more deliberate photography. It's not necessary for the waterproof action camera to have telephoto capabilities. While I drag around a tripod for my on-shore photography, it's not the easiest object to stuff into a loaded boat. I store it inside a nylon fabric case to keep it from scratching up the inside of my boat and the case makes sliding it in among the gear bags much easier.

*The most dramatic improvement you can make in indoor flash photography is use bounce flash techniques. Generally this means using a pivoting head, accessory flash mounted on the hot shoe. You also need to be able to turn off the built-in flash. The camera you choose needs to have a hot shoe, flash controls, and a suitable flash offered by the manufacturer. This does not have much relevance to kayaking, but hey, who does not use their camera for other purposes?

*Keeping Things Dry
A waterproof camera is a great tool for capturing dramatic photos in wet conditions. I have an old Nikon dive camera that is compact, waterproof, and takes excellent photos. Being fixed focal length at 35mm, I have to get up close to my subject. That's not such a bad thing because those photos are often the most interesting anyway. I can fire it one handed in waves and surf with no worries. A leash or a float on the strap is a good idea.

*The biggest issue with this camera is keeping water drops off the lens. My first line of defense is a press-on cap that covers the lens when not in use (on a leash). Second I use a water repellent (Rainex) to help the water roll off. I prefer a small water drop or two in the photo to a bleary smear. Rainex is not used directly on a coated lens element but either on the glass port or a filter. Last I carry a Rocket Bulb (rubber squeeze bulb) to blow water off or a synthetic hand towel to blot the water away. You can try blowing drops away with your breath, but this usually fogs the lens for a short time.

Another option is to use a waterproof dive case for a regular camera. I have no direct experience with these. I have noted reviews however suggesting that the cheaper cases soften images somewhat, especially in glare situations. These cases usually have drawbacks like having to turn the camera on before assembly and no way to make adjustments to flash, exposure settings, or polarizing filter. Unfortunately most of the better cases are made for diving and are really too large for general kayak use.

One can use a dry box like a Pelican case strapped on deck for easy access to a regular camera. I have taken many photos this way and it works OK. The camera stays in the box if water is hitting the deck however. Be sure to use a foam lined box, lid included, to keep sun from cooking your camera.

I usually keep my SLR enclosed in a dry-bag and placed on my deck or in my lap. I pull this camera out in decent conditions. I try to anticipate when good photos are likely to happen. Sometimes I paddle ahead of the group in order to catch them in a pleasing composition. Back of head photos are not the greatest unless the paddlers are facing something dramatic. Inside the bag I have more synthetic towels and desiccant. A lens hood is very useful for keeping water drops off the front element. In fact, I often do not replace the lens cap during intermittent shooting. The hood keeps the dry bag sides from contacting the lens element while it is temporarily stored away.

For me at least, euro-style paddles work a lot better than Greenland paddles for photographic outings. The latter leaves my hands constantly wet and drips water all over the cockpit area. In calm conditions I can paddle with a "Euro" and maintain completely dry hands. This is a much better situation for non-waterproof cameras.

Taking sharp photos
When I say sharp, I mean images that are razor sharp when printed at least as large as 8 inches by 10 inches. First, use a much higher shutter speed than you would use on land. To get that high shutter speed use a fast lens (e.g. f2.8 max aperture) wide open or a high iso setting. Beware though, that high iso settings on digital cameras often leads to objectionable image noise, especially with less expensive cameras.

Use the sharpest lens that you can afford. There can be quite a difference among lenses. Some older lenses that worked fine with film yield soft results on digital SLR's because of the different technology involved. Telephoto zoom lenses on consumer grade point and shoot cameras tend to be rather poor and are so slow as to be almost useless in a kayak. In general I stay away from lenses slower than f4.5.

If possible get up close and use a short focal length lens. Long focal length lenses will amplify movement causing soft images. Besides, high quality short lenses are much more affordable and will likely account for most of your photographs anyway.

Use a vibration reduction/image stabilization type lens (could be a budget buster).

What to do when things go horribly wrong
If you drop your camera in the water, immediately remove the battery. Do not try to find out if the camera still works. Doing so could short out the electronic components. While you are at it, remove the memory card which is likely fine. Dry the camera and place it in a warm dry spot with good air circulation. It may take a week to dry out. How do I know? Trust, me, I've been there. If it is a high value camera, contact the manufacturer as soon as possible for further instructions. It's likely that they will want you to get it to them as soon as possible. In the days of mechanical cameras it was suggested to flush the camera with clean water. With all of the electronic content of today's cameras I don't believe that is any longer a good procedure.

This covers only the basics of a complex subject. The digital camera industry is moving at a torrid pace. I'm afraid trying to make equipment recommendations beyond the basics would prove futile. Also your needs and budget are likely to be different than mine. If you have questions, feel free to contact me. I have included two photography review links at the right which might prove useful to you. The first, DP Review has very detailed reviews for a huge number of cameras. They do a good job. Second is Bjorn Rorslett's Nikon Equipment Reviews for Pros. He identifies which Nikon equipment, including lenses, will produce professional results.

[Blaze]

New Item out! Not sure what I think about it yet but they do have a Demo going on...

[Blaze]

Missing Kayakers in Cosco Bay found dead
I'm not sure if many of you have been following this story but it is one that happens all too often. This time it hits closer to home and makes headlines here in Atlanta because one of the kayakers, an eighteen-year-old woman, is from Georgia.

Two young women, trying to paddle in conditions they could not handle and conditions their kayaks were not designed for, were pulled out of the water three and a half miles offshore on Casco Bay, Maine.

Both were “unresponsive” when found, airlifted to Maine Medical Center and later pronounced dead.

From current reports, the two women were doing a short, one-mile, paddle from Peaks Island to Ram Island. They were spotted making land on Ram Island but became missed later that day.

The reason I want to write about this story is because I see and hear about this kind of thing all the time. As a trainer, it is also something I have done many seminars about with local paddling clubs and Atlanta based R.E.I co-ops.

I get enthusiastic novice paddlers, all the time, wanting to paddle their ten and twelve foot kayaks to some of my most challenging offshore locations.

When I talk about rescue skills and open water training, folks eye’s glaze over and the response I get is; “Ah, I don’t need to learn that kind of stuff!”

So, the warning I give is simple: Do not overstep the boundaries of your kayaking skills or the limits of your kayaking gear. Unless, of course, you are a fish! This applies just as much to short, hour-long trips as it does to multi day adventures.

It also applies to paddling on local lakes as much as offshore kayaking. If you cannot swim back to the shoreline, consider it “open water” and open water skills are required.

The two women died from hypothermia because they probably did not plan accordingly for the weather conditions and the limits of their kayaking gear. They were paddling in 46 to 48-degree water temperatures with out the proper clothing and they took off in kayaks that were not designed for unprotected conditions. The marine forecast called 20 mph winds and a small craft advisory had been issued.

I do not know these women, so I can’t tell you what their current level of open water experience was but I can venture to guess that they had no proper open water training. I say this because those with proper training and experience would not have done this paddle with out the appropriate paddling gear to prevent hypothermia - neoprene, dry top and pants or even a layer of heavy fleece.

As well, to be paddling 12-foot kayaks (most kayaks this size are designed to be paddled in protected water only), in weather conditions that warrant a small craft advisory is suicide. But, it happens all the time.

Just because you bought a kayak that "looks" sea worthy or the sales person has told you that they paddle this kayak at the beach all the time, does not mean it can handle conditions like the two women found themselves facing.

A sea kayak you will not find at Wal-Mart, BJ’s, Bass Pro Shops or even some R.E.I co-ops. Just because it says, “Ocean Kayak” on the side, does not mean it is designed to be paddled on open ocean.

The adventure of paddling open water is one of exhilaration, pleasure and respect. And with the proper skill set, a sea kayak can be easily paddled and controlled in the conditions that the two women found themselves in.

Understanding wind and tides are a part of the training. My best guess would be that, as they left Ram Island, to return home, they found the wind and the tides taking them in the wrong direction and could not control their kayaks. They became tired, panic set in, then one of them probably capsized and they did not have the rescue skills to get her back into her kayak and the second woman capsized.

Both were found floating in the water about one mile apart. They were over three miles off shore from Cape Elizabeth and had drifted over five miles from Ram Island. The kayaks had been found the previous day.

When enjoying the fun and adventure of kayaking, it’s all too easy to be lulled into a state of self-assuredness when the distance to be paddled is not very far. The distance to Ram Island from their launching point was one mile. They may have understood the risk they took, being in 48-degree water or paddling in strong winds, “But…” they probably said to themselves; “…it’s only a mile!”

Now, my question to every kayaker out there, how many times have you said the same thing?

[Blaze]

How to Choose a Kayak Paddle
So you've purchased a kayak. Congratulations! The next item on your list is likely to be a paddle. But how do you choose? There's no such thing as the perfect paddle — it's different for everyone. The paddle is an extension of your arms in much the same way the kayak is an extension of your body, and you want the right one. While paddle choice is largely a matter of personal preference, length, weight, material and blade shape are all variables that will affect your decision.

First, Choose a Length

Paddle lengths for touring range from approximately 220cm to 255cm.

One way to determine correct size is as follows: Lift the paddle and rest the center on top of your head. Position your hands on the shaft with both elbows bent at roughly 90 degrees. In general, the blades should be about 4" to 5" from your hands, though this is just a general guideline. Don't forget torso lengths—a tall person with a short torso, for example, might need a shorter paddle, and vice versa.

Individual height, boat width and simple personal preference might also influence your decision. Some general guidelines to consider:

Taller people and/or those with wide boats should look at lengths of 240cm or more.
Average-size people should consider paddles in the 230cm-235cm range.
Recreational paddlers and shorter individuals can often use lengths as short as 220cm.
Again, boat width is an important consideration that may result in an average-size person with a wide boat using a 245cm paddle. Consider all the variables and, if possible, try some paddles out before choosing a size.

Fine-Tuning Fit
The following questions can help fine-tune the fit of your paddle.

How wide is your boat? Wider boats, such as tandem kayaks, need longer paddles. A longer paddle allows you to reach the water without straining or hitting the side of the kayak during a stroke. A paddle that's too short requires extra effort to get the entire blade in the water, making it more difficult to propel the boat.
What's your paddling style? If you make quick, rapid strokes, a shorter length will make the paddling more efficient. If you're more laid back, or out for an extended tour, a longer paddle requires less effort, which saves energy for the long haul.
How long is your torso? In general, taller paddlers and those with long torsos need longer paddles to reach the water without stretching or straining. Shorter paddlers (and shorter torsos) need shorter paddles to prevent awkward strokes. Height is not always an indicator of torso length, though, as a short paddler with a long torso may need a longer paddle than indicated above.
Are you buying for a child? Choose a paddle designed specifically for children. They are built proportionally smaller and are easier for small hands to control.
Materials

It goes without saying that the lighter the weight, the easier the paddling. However, the best paddles offer a balanced combination of light weight and strength. Whitewater paddles are expected to hold up to a vigorous workout, and strength is a big consideration. Touring paddles, on the other hand, won't be subject to the same strains, so weight becomes more important, especially on long trips.

Wood
Wood transmits the feel of the water well, helping achieve a smooth stroke. It retains warmth to keep hands comfortable in cold conditions. Some upkeep is required to maintain its appearance. Many wood paddles are covered with a layer of fiberglass and/or have a tip guard to improve durability.

Fiberglass
These paddles are lightweight, durable and virtually maintenance-free. The nature of fiberglass allows for more complex blade shapes. In the middle of the price range, these are by far the most popular choice for whitewater and sea kayaking alike.

Carbon Fiber
Carbon fiber paddles are among the lightest available. The high-tech material and manufacturing process produces durable paddles with extremely light weights. They cost more, but are worth it if weight is a concern, such as when you expect to be paddling long hours or on multi-day trips. Carbon fiber is slightly less durable than fiberglass.

Aluminum/Plastic
Paddles with aluminum shafts and plastic blades are durable and economical, but heavier than paddles made from other materials. Also, aluminum can feel cold in cool weather. They make great spare paddles, and can be a good choice for beginners or recreational kayakers. Blades are made from a variety of plastics, including polyethylene, polypropylene, thermoplastic and ABS.

Blade Design

Feathering
Blades are either feathered or nonfeathered. Nonfeathered blades are positioned parallel to each other. Feathered blades are rotated at an angle to each other. The main benefit of feathering is that it reduces wind resistance. As one blade strokes through the water, the other slices through the air. Blade angles vary from 45 to 90 degrees, with most falling in the 45- to 65-degree range. Smaller angles are easier on the wrists, but larger angles offer greater efficiency when paddling.

Blades are feathered in such a way that one hand always maintains control of the paddle. This "control hand" rotates the shaft with each stroke so the blades enter the water at the most efficient angle. Most whitewater paddles are controlled with the right hand. Most touring paddles have take-apart shafts that let you change the feather angle and the control hand. The control hand is a matter of personal preference, and is not necessarily determined by whether you are right- or left-handed.

Blade Shape
Large symmetrical blades can power you through the water quickly, but each stroke requires a lot of energy. While smaller blades are gaining in popularity, larger blades are useful for surfing and paddling that requires quick, powerful bursts of acceleration.

Asymmetrical blades help you paddle most efficiently. They are narrower than their symmetrical counterparts and tolerate a more horizontal stroke, which uses up less energy. If you're paddling for long periods of time, or just want to reduce fatigue in general, consider asymmetrical blades.

Blades are either flat, cupped (spooned) or dihedral. Cupped blades are curved much like the head of a spoon. This design helps the blade remain stable as you paddle through the water. Dihedral blades have a built-in angle, similar to an airplane wing. The dihedral shape helps water flow smoothly and evenly over both halves of the blade to prevent fluttering and twisting. Many paddle blades are a combination of dihedral and cupped shapes.

Shafts

Paddles are available with either 1-piece or take-apart shafts. One-piece shafts are inherently stronger. Because whitewater paddles suffer more abuse than touring paddles, they generally feature the more durable 1-piece shafts. Touring paddles, on the other hand, usually break down into 2 or more pieces. Take-apart shafts let you change blade angles from feathered to unfeathered. They make great spares for whitewater kayaking and touring, because the are easy to transport.

Shafts come in 2 shapes: oval and round. Oval shafts offer a more comfortable grip than the traditional round shape. Some round shafts feature oval hand sections for a better grip. This is called oval indexing.

Swing weight is how balanced a paddle feels while paddling. A paddle with lightweight blades and a heavier shaft feels lighter than a paddle with heavy blades and a light shaft. Ideally, blade weight and shaft weight should be balanced. Hold a paddle and practice your stroke to get a feel for the swing weight.

Carry a Spare

If your paddle breaks in the middle of a whitewater run, or if you lose it on the second day of a 4-day sea kayak trip, what will you do? Without a spare, you might literally find yourself up a creek without a paddle. An aluminum-and-plastic paddle with a take-apart shaft makes an inexpensive spare that could save you serious time and grief should the unexpected happen. They are easy to stash and stand up to rigorous use. Check out our selection.

Try Them Out

If possible, the best way for you to choose a paddle is to try one out. Check out your local REI store — some let members demo boats and paddles for free. You could also borrow from a friend or attend a kayak symposium where manufacturers let you test gear. Local paddling clubs are a good source of information for these types of events. After you purchase a paddle, try a dry run. Sit in your boat and practice paddling. Is the paddle long enough? Does it feel comfortable in your hands and not too heavy? If so, you're ready to hit the water. Happy paddling!

Back to Top



By REI staff
In This Article
First, Choose a Length
Materials
Blade Design
Shafts
Carry a Spare
Try Them Out

[Blaze]

Reflections from the Cockpit June 2008
"The Whistle In Kayaking"

A couple of months ago I had the pleasure to observe one of the local kayaking instructors for a couple of days. During one of the breaks, I was sitting around with the students and I noticed the all to familiar sight of the combat ready knife and the safety whistle hanging on the main zipper of the PFD. See USK article, “Combat Ready Knife” for my thoughts about knives on PFD’s. I wish to focus this article on the use, expectations, reliability and storage of your whistle when paddling.

First I want to be very clear that I am 100% in favor of every PFD having a whistle attached to it. I know from experience that a whistle carries a lot farther than your voice. It is also a fact that your voice will give out a lot sooner than your whistle. However there are a number of concerns I have about whistles all derived from personal experiences.

I think there is a false expectation of how far the sound of a whistle can travel. During a navigation clinic off of Martha Vineyard we had a head wind on the return compass run. The group was getting farther apart as we were approaching shore, which is very common. See USK article, “Run Back To The Barn Attitude”. I asked two of the folks at the tail end of the group to capsize and signal the front of the group for assistance. The point of the capsize exercise was to show the entire group the benefits of staying together. Again, we were going into a head wind. The two in the water only had whistles. They didn't even try shouting, because they knew the paddlers in front were too far away. After blowing their whistles their amazement was apparent when the front group did not hear them. The distance was no more than 200 yards.

We had to send a paddler ahead to get closer to the group so they could hear a whistle. Due to the wind, those in front never heard the initial whistles. The fact that none of the lead group never turned around on regular basis to check on those behind is a discussion topic for another time. I often tell groups to test their whistles on calm days and windy days to see how far the whistle carries with and against the wind. I suggest you do the same, because just having a whistle doesn’t mean you are going to be heard. That is why a good signaling kit contains other options. See USK article “Signaling”. As I said at the beginning, I think whistles are a necessity, but they do have limitations. Knowing those limitations is important. It is your responsibility to find the range of your whistle if you wish to depend on that whistle.

My next concern is where to store the whistle. Part of knowing where to store it is also dependent on the size of your whistle and the features on your PFD. Since there are so many different PFD’s on the market I am not going to tell you the best place to store your whistle. I will tell you where and I store mine and why. I will also give you criteria to consider when picking the storage location for your whistle.

Personally I prefer a small whistle than a large one. I suggest you get a whistle that DOES NOT have a little ball in it. Those balls can get stuck in the chamber and cause the whistle to malfunction, especially in salt water. My very first metal whistle corroded and can be rough on your mouth and your teeth. Plastic ones seem to be more user friendly. I personally use a “Fox 40”. I store the whistle in the pocket of my PFD on a small lanyard so it can reach my mouth.

I originally stored my whistle attached to the front zipper of my PFD. I thought this was a great location, because it was also a zipper pull and the whistle could reach my mouth when the PFD was zipped up. As a side note, when I started kayaking there were no pockets on our PFD’s. Even if there were, the zipper seemed like a great location. After wearing the whistle on the zipper for four or five years I had a very interesting incident on the South Fork of the American River when I was whitewater kayaking. We were starting our run at Chili Bar (if my memory correctly serves me) and we decided to play in a small play hole near the put in. During one of my turns in the hole I got flipped over and was trying to roll up and I felt restricted. I realized I had my PFD open and around my shoulders. I managed to roll up and went off into the eddy to zip up my PFD and curse myself for not remembering to do so when I got on the river. I couldn’t believe I was so stupid as to forget to zip up my PFD.

When it was my turn, I went back into the play hole. Eventually I got flipped again. I started to feel my PFD on my shoulders again. I opened my eyes to see the turbulent water and bubbles actually pulling on the whistle. Since I was upside down the whistle was trying to float to the surface and the turbulent water was pulling it there. This whistle zipper pull was opening my PFD as I stayed upside down. I rolled up and headed for the eddy. Took the whistle off of the zipper and never put anything on the zipper of my PFD again. I share this story with anyone I see with their whistle on their zipper.

Over the years I have seen sea kayakers with whistles on the front of their PFD’s get caught on deck lines, cockpit coamings and deck gear as they try to climb on their boats during recovery exercises. I think having anything on your PFD that can get snagged during recoveries is a potential danger. Your whistle is supposed to be a safety item NOT a liability.

I wish PFD manufacturers would make very small whistle pockets with a hook inside so you could easily store your whistle on a short cord and have it accessible when you need it. If you put it in a big pocket it can get tangled up with the other items in the pocket. Until whistle pockets are a reality (I doubt if the ever will happen) you need to choose your personal whistle storage location. Wherever you store it, make sure you can get to it in an emergency. I suggest you get one that will work without maintenance.

I believe whistles are a necessity, but you need to know their range and limitations. You should have more than one signaling devise when you go out. Don’t fall into a false sense of security that having a whistle will be the “end all” in case you need help. Again, store it where it is an asset not a liability.



Wayne Horodowich

[Blaze]

Currents explained



Another thing that you need to watch out for if you're going kayaking are ocean currents. Depending on where you are, they can either be a slight or a relatively important factor. You should always try to make sure that your trips will allow you to paddle with the current instead of against it, or that if you do have to paddle against the current that you have made plans just in case you get tired.

Currents are caused when the water is different temperatures. While we generally hear about the water temperature as though it is just one thing, that is not always the case. In fact, there are usually pockets or streams of ocean water that moves at different speeds.

You would think that eventually all the water in the ocean would smooth out to be the same temperature. However, that is not the case. In fact, it's very likely not possible, due to all of the different factors that affect water temperature in the oceans. For instance, sunlight can definitely affect the water temperature in places. The result of this is that areas that generally get a lot of sunlight (usually around the equator) will have warmer water than other places.

Likewise, water that is near the polar ice caps or glaciers generally gets full of melt-water from this ice. The result is that that water ends up being colder than the water around it.

This causes the currents because of a very simple fact regarding water and air. That is, when air or water warms up the pressure increases. Air or water that has higher pressure than the air or water around it tends to move into the areas that have less pressure. As a result, warm water tends to flow around the globe. For that reason, we get the major currents.

You can also get smaller currents as a result of differences in water pressure and temperature. Not only that, but there are even some currents that are caused by the tides, and how water flows over certain areas when the tide goes up or down.

Make sure that you account for the currents wherever you plan on kayaking. They can either help you, or cause a lot of problems if you're not careful with your planning.

[Blaze]

Before you start kayaking, this is one thing that you will probably be concerned with. After all, not too many people can afford spending too much money on their hobbies, and kayaking does seem like the type of activity that would cost a lot of money to start. However, just like most other things that you would think about doing, kayaking can either be very expensive, or relatively affordable.

The most expensive thing that you will probably be buying is your kayak. There are a lot of different kayaks on the market, however, so you should probably pay attention to which ones are available. There's no reason to spend more money than you have to on this. Also, if you manage to buy your kayak used, then you will save a lot of money.

Another way that you can make sure that you don't spend too much money on kayaking is by maintaining your kayak. The more you maintain your kayak, the less money you'll have to spend on repairs. Considering the types of repairs that might be needed on a badly cared for kayak, this could be a considerable amount of money.

While there are also a lot of other items that you will need for your kayak, before you buy each thing you should ask yourself whether or not you'll actually need to use it. If the answer is no, then you can save some extra money by not buying that particular thing. For instance, if you are not going to be going kayaking out at sea for long periods of time, or if you don't think that you'll be going on long kayak tours, then you probably will not need to get a GPS system for your kayak.

You should also pay attention to whether or not you need to get the best supplies. While it would be nice to have the best of everything, you should look at what will be sufficient instead.

However, even though you can save some money by omitting certain things from your list of necessary items, you should always make sure that you have all the necessary safety gear. Every kayak should have a first aid kit in the hatch, and you should always wear a personal flotation device for your own safety.

[Blaze]

Once you've found the perfect kayak for you, and you're ready to go kayaking, there's one other thing that you need to learn about first. You need to know how to take care of your kayak, otherwise, you may find that your kayak doesn't last nearly as long as you would like it to. Considering how much kayaks tend to cost, this should definitely be a priority for you.

One thing that you should keep in mind regarding kayak maintenance is that like most things, a little bit of prevention can go a long way. As a result, you should make sure that you do a little bit of regular maintenance on your kayak. This way, you'll be able to keep your kayak nice, and you won't have to worry about doing a lot of maintenance all at once when something breaks.

First, you should always make sure that you wash your kayak regularly. This will help keep it clean, and will also make sure that you can see if there is anything on the kayak that could cause problems later. This is especially important if you are kayaking in salt water, since the salt can corrode parts of your kayak. You should also make sure that you rinse the inside of your kayak as well if any salt water got inside.

You should make sure that your kayak does not have any holes in it, too - and you can do this before you find yourself sitting in a leaking kayak out at sea. All you have to do is put a flashlight inside of the kayak and cover the cockpit. Then put the kayak in a dark room. If you see any areas of light then that means that you have a crack in your kayak. This is the best way for you to decide if you have a crack in your actual kayak instead of just in the paint. Cracks in the paint will make your boat look worse than it is, but they won't do any real structural damage to your kayak.

Finally, if you don't want your paint to fade and you're worried about the boat warping at all, then you should store it indoors and out of the sun temperature changes.

[LeftWriteFemme]

I don't know why, but I first read the title of this thread as "Making love in a Kayak"


Paddle on........nothing to see here

[Blaze]

If your ever going to Kauai Hawaii, here is a VERY good link to enjoy seeing area's by kayak...
https://www.kayakkauai.com/

[Blaze]

When this photograph was first published in Africa Geographic, BBC Wildlife and later in Paris Match and the Daily Mail (London) it resulted in a flurry of e-mails, phone calls and letters from around the world asking if the image was a fake. The image became the most talked about of shark photograph ever.

The photograph is real, no photoshop, no digital manipulation, no nothing, in fact it was shot on slide film Fuji Provia 100 using a Nikon F5 Camera and 17-35 mm lens. For those conspiracy fans who still doubt its authenticity please read how I took the photograph.

To capture this image I tied myself to the tower of the research boat Lamnidae and leaned into the void, precariously hanging over the ocean while waiting patiently for a white shark to come along. I wanted to shot a photograph that would tell the story of our research efforts to track white sharks using kayaks. When the first shark of the day came across our sea kayak it dove to the seabed and inspected it from below. I quickly trained my camera on the dark shadow which slowly transformed from diffuse shape into the sleek outline of a large great white. When the shark’s dorsal fin broke the surface I thought I had the shot, but hesitated a fraction of a second and was rewarded with marine biologist Trey Snow in the kayak turning around to look behind him. I pressed the shutter and the rest was history. Throughout the day I shot many more images, most showing the kayak following the shark, but all lacked the power of that first image of the great white tracking the kayak.

Kayaking with Great White Sharks



In 2003 my friend and white shark biologist Michael Scholl discovered large numbers of great white sharks in extremely shallow water near the southernmost tip of South Africa. We initiated a research project but all of our initial attempts were thwarted because the sharks were repelled or attracted to the boats engine’s electrical fields, disrupting their natural behaviour.

I have been sea kayaking for quite a number of years, frequently using it as a photographic platform and could not think of a better, less unobtrusive vessel from which to track white sharks from. Granted the first few attempts were a little nerve-wracking, even though we had observed the sharks reaction to an empty kayak numerous times. It is hard to describe what goes through ones mind when sitting in a yellow plastic sea kayak and a 4.5 m + great white shark is heading your way.

White sharks, despite their bad reputation are much more cautious and inquisitive in nature than aggressive and unpredictable. At no time did any shark show any agression towards our little yum yum yellow craft.

We believe that white sharks come inshore in such great numbers to socially interact with others of their species, perhaps even to mate or give birth to their young. We have observed sharks following behind or swimming tight circles around one another. To observe and document great white sharks mating or giving birth is the holy grail of shark research and photography, but it is also a extremely difficult and perhaps an even almost impossible task.

For a more detailed account of the research and to see more images please refer to the following book: South Africa’s Great White Shark, by Thomas P. Peschak and Michael C. Scholl, published by Struik in 2006. It is available from all good bookshops and online book merchants.

[StillettoDoll]

Hey Blaze your kayak fishing show comes on tonight @ 7.30! Kayak Bassing

[The Oopster]

I already have crossbars on the top of my car where is the best place to get something to help hold the yak?

[pajama]

Originally Posted by The Oopster

I already have crossbars on the top of my car where is the best place to get something to help hold the yak?

Oops I'm sure Blaze will have better info, but if you already have the crossbars here's what I think.

You can buy some pipe insulation at a home supply shop for cheap. It comes with a split up it and is easy to cut. You can use that to wrap your crossbars to protect the yak. Then the things I've read say don't use a ratcheting type tie down because it can exert too much pressure and warp the yak. The fancy shmancy "kit" I bought has what a friend called motorcycle tie downs? They are a spring loaded buckle with teeth in it that lets you pull the strap tight. I'm not sure where to get these, but I bet the same home supply place would have something like it.


Then some sturdy S hooks to hook them in to your fender/undercarriage.
That's basically what's in those kayak kits, but I bet you can get them cheeper. My kit ran almost $40.

Hope that helps.
A

[The Oopster]

Originally Posted by pajara

Oops I'm sure Blaze will have better info, but if you already have the crossbars here's what I think.

You can buy some pipe insulation at a home supply shop for cheap. It comes with a split up it and is easy to cut. You can use that to wrap your crossbars to protect the yak. Then the things I've read say don't use a ratcheting type tie down because it can exert too much pressure and warp the yak. The fancy shmancy "kit" I bought has what a friend called motorcycle tie downs? They are a spring loaded buckle with teeth in it that lets you pull the strap tight. I'm not sure where to get these, but I bet the same home supply place would have something like it.


Then some sturdy S hooks to hook them in to your fender/undercarriage.
That's basically what's in those kayak kits, but I bet you can get them cheeper. My kit ran almost $40.

Hope that helps.
A

Thanks

bought the insulation the other day and i already had some tie down straps but bought a couple more in case i need some for work

now i just need to come up with a cart system. I actually have a little dolly on wheels I just need to find a crate

[Sachita]

Originally Posted by The Oopster

I already have crossbars on the top of my car where is the best place to get something to help hold the yak?

I have two large ocean 11 foot kayaks. I was able to get both of them in my cargo van myself, however when i traded it and bought my Escape (suv) I attempted to get one on top to tie it down. I just don't feel comfortable doing this and even though they make a padded system to hold them up there its the weight of trying to get them up there alone. Often I go out by myself.

I just had a hitch put on and out a 5 X 8 trailer on lay-away. It has a ramp and I'm going to have something welded for the kayaks and a storage box. This way i can put camping gear and my bike underneath. This was a problem in the van because once the boats were in I couldnt fit anything else but maybe a few small coolers.

I am an experienced outdoors woman. Still I take no chances and often I am outdoors a lone. I always call someone, like my sister and let her know where i am at and many times email maps to her. I pack extra things in case of emergency. You never know what could happen. Cold water can be deadly. It's not a bad idea to talk to people who have already kayaked in the area you want to go.

[MsTinkerbelly]

We have a two seater kayak that we bought at a boat show...very heavy duty material, and it blows up! We are able to store it easily in the RV and it is ready to go with very little effort.

We have run the Kern river in it, and also taken it in the lake and in the ocean. Several hundred dollers and worrth EVERY penny.

[The Oopster]

Originally Posted by Sachita

I have two large ocean 11 foot kayaks. I was able to get both of them in my cargo van myself, however when i traded it and bought my Escape (suv) I attempted to get one on top to tie it down. I just don't feel comfortable doing this and even though they make a padded system to hold them up there its the weight of trying to get them up there alone. Often I go out by myself.

I just had a hitch put on and out a 5 X 8 trailer on lay-away. It has a ramp and I'm going to have something welded for the kayaks and a storage box. This way i can put camping gear and my bike underneath. This was a problem in the van because once the boats were in I couldnt fit anything else but maybe a few small coolers.

I am an experienced outdoors woman. Still I take no chances and often I am outdoors a lone. I always call someone, like my sister and let her know where i am at and many times email maps to her. I pack extra things in case of emergency. You never know what could happen. Cold water can be deadly. It's not a bad idea to talk to people who have already kayaked in the area you want to go.

I have someone I check in and out with when i go out exploring anywhere.

I also have neighbors here that know if I'm not home by midnight something is up. I also tell them if I'm out playing so that the alert by be made earlier or if I'm not coming home at all so the whole forest doesn't end up looking for me.

If I have access i log into latitude also

I will find out today how well i can lift it on top. I did snag my step ladder from home!

[Blaze]

Forgive the ad commercial, but this video shows that sometimes you can be lucky! And Doctor Mary Neal is now a believer, she wrote a book called "To Heaven and back"
http://video.foxnews.com/v/163241318...king-accident/