Butch Attire & Fashion

Kelt · 05-10-2014, 07:49 PM

Dapper is spot on about fit being 80% of the impression. It is really going to depend on how your partner is built as to whether or not the mens or women's department will get the best starting point. Either way, I cannot recommend getting a tailor highly enough. It is the finishing that makes it.

If you end up buying shirts in the mens dept many times you may find the sleeves need to be shortened 1-2cm or they will bunch at the cuff and look sloppy, women's arms are proportionally a bit shorter most of the time and the shoulder is the most important fit check. If your GF is more stout it might be better to start with a women's cut for the shoulder/hip ratio but look out for darts, nuff said about that. A tailor can taper the sides to fit whatever shape needed (within reason). If your GF is smaller in stature it's another problem, I run into this and sometimes end up in boys sizes where it is harder to find quality.

Similarily, with trousers it is the "drop" that matters for your starting point. The waist to hip ratio. Typically if you are starting with a mens cut you will want the difference to be 8" inches or less, if it is more, start with a women's cut otherwise they will never hang right. It is good to look for a "split back" waistband if you can (mostly in mens or expensive women's) for ease of tailoring.

I used to have to navigate the professional dress quandary also and went with basically a suit minus the tie or would sometimes sub in a mock-t sweater of higher quality. I was in an all male environment though, so I'm not sure that would fly. If the position is going to be working with mostly men or women will likely matter. Playing to the expected audience would be safer up front and then after settling into the position more freedom might available. Right now getting the job is probably top priority. There are in-between spaces for sweaters, shorter cut jackets (Ellen), skipping jackets (like Dapper) and sometimes just going with a brighter color shirt seems to work. Personality and skills should trump all but it's the real world. It's important that your partner feels comfortable and professional.

Come back in and let us know what you come up with or if you have more questions.

05-10-2014, 07:49 PM	#11
Kelt Senior Member How Do You Identify?: Beach Butch Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: SoCal Posts: 2,751 My Photo Gallery Thanks: 19,765 Thanked 15,303 Times in 2,539 Posts Rep Power: 21474853	Dapper is spot on about fit being 80% of the impression. It is really going to depend on how your partner is built as to whether or not the mens or women's department will get the best starting point. Either way, I cannot recommend getting a tailor highly enough. It is the finishing that makes it. If you end up buying shirts in the mens dept many times you may find the sleeves need to be shortened 1-2cm or they will bunch at the cuff and look sloppy, women's arms are proportionally a bit shorter most of the time and the shoulder is the most important fit check. If your GF is more stout it might be better to start with a women's cut for the shoulder/hip ratio but look out for darts, nuff said about that. A tailor can taper the sides to fit whatever shape needed (within reason). If your GF is smaller in stature it's another problem, I run into this and sometimes end up in boys sizes where it is harder to find quality. Similarily, with trousers it is the "drop" that matters for your starting point. The waist to hip ratio. Typically if you are starting with a mens cut you will want the difference to be 8" inches or less, if it is more, start with a women's cut otherwise they will never hang right. It is good to look for a "split back" waistband if you can (mostly in mens or expensive women's) for ease of tailoring. I used to have to navigate the professional dress quandary also and went with basically a suit minus the tie or would sometimes sub in a mock-t sweater of higher quality. I was in an all male environment though, so I'm not sure that would fly. If the position is going to be working with mostly men or women will likely matter. Playing to the expected audience would be safer up front and then after settling into the position more freedom might available. Right now getting the job is probably top priority. There are in-between spaces for sweaters, shorter cut jackets (Ellen), skipping jackets (like Dapper) and sometimes just going with a brighter color shirt seems to work. Personality and skills should trump all but it's the real world. It's important that your partner feels comfortable and professional. Come back in and let us know what you come up with or if you have more questions.