For the love of Kayaking

[Blaze]

Sit-on-Top Vs. Sit-Inside Kayaks



kayak image by Greg Pickens from Fotolia.com

Sit-on-Top Vs. Sit-Inside Kayaks



Overview

If you are new to kayaking, choosing the right type of kayak can seem overwhelming. Kayaks come in various widths, lengths and shapes. They are made from many types of materials, including metal, vinyl and fiberglass. Choosing among these features depends largely on how you plan to use the kayak. For example, a kayak built for distance paddling can be difficult to control in rough rapids. Another factor to consider is whether to buy a sit-on-top or a sit-in kayak. Both types have distinct advantages and disadvantages.
Definitions

A sit-in kayak features a seat that is inside the kayak, according to Adventure Times Kayaks. There is an opening on top of the kayak for the paddler to climb in and out of the vessel. Some sit-in kayaks have water skirts over the opening to help prevent water from entering the kayak.



A sit-on-top kayak features a seat that is mounted above the hull, rather than inside it. The top of the hull is typically solid, with small holes or channels designed to drain water from the top of the kayak.
Appropriateness



According to the Paddleshack website, sit-on-top kayaks are appropriate for inexperienced paddlers, especially those who have not perfected techniques to avoid rolling the kayak. They are also appropriate for anglers because they are stable when stationary.



Sit-in kayaks are appropriate for more experienced paddlers who need greater control over the vessel. They also work well for avid kayakers who want a long kayaking season, because paddlers can be use them in spring and autumn weather.
Performance

Generally, sit-on-top kayaks are more cumbersome on the water than sit-in kayaks, according to Paddle Shack Kayaks. They are typically wider than sit-in kayaks to compensate for the paddler's higher center of gravity. This can make sit-on-top kayaks slower and more difficult to paddle.



The lower center of gravity of sit-in kayaks typically make them faster and easier to control.
Gear Storage

Because sit-in kayaks offer access to the entire hull, they are better for storing gear without tie-downs. Sit-on-top kayaks, on the other hand, have molded tops, providing less space for storing gear. Also, gear can be protected from the elements in a sit-in kayak but is exposed on a sit-on-top model.
Hauling and Storage

Because the seat is mounted above the hull on a sit-on-top kayak, it takes up more space during hauling and storage than a sit-in kayak. This can make hauling a sit-on-top kayak more difficult, particularly if you are hauling the vessel on top of a passenger car. A sit-on-top kayak is also more difficult to hang on a wall, which can create storage problems if you have a small garage or limited storage space.

MOC Kayaks Large Kayak & Accessory Selection Great Prices & Customer Service www.mockayaks.com
Kayak Buyers Guide Research tons of kayaks in one easy place. Decide what to buy. www.paddling.net
Top 10 Cheap Kayaks Blowout Sale On Cheap Kayaks Season's Latest Cheap Kayaks Cheap-Kayaks.ShopCompare.net
Kayaks On Sale Find New And Used Kayaks On Sale Buy One Today Online. Kayak.ClassifiedAds.Com
Sponsored Links





References

• Adventure Times Kayaks: Choosing a Fishing Kayak
• Paddle Shack Kayaks: Tips on Selecting a Kayak

Read more: http://www.livestrong.com/article/17...#ixzz19uiNY0Hn

[Blaze]

Here is an excellent link to kayak help questions and answers.
http://www.kayakhelp.com/ Full of lots of info from buying one to taking care of it!

[afixer]

I have two boats now and just started easing back into it last summer.
I whitewater paddled in my twenties and loved it. then one good friday in 1988 I went rafting with a bunch of guide friends on the Occoe. it was flood stage and a very bad idea. I didn't get on white water again until last summer when I hit the river I learn to paddle on.



I picked up (for free ) a Bluehole whitewater canoe this summer and sorta stalled with the repairs on it. the boat is about 20 years old but it's a tough ass boat and was free. here's a pic of what they look like.

I also have an old town kayak like this one.

I wear a pfd like this but am shopping for something better fitting.

and my paddles...I have several paddles depending on where I'm going.

[Sparkle]

Great thread, thank you!

I love kayaking. I love the truly unique vantage point and experience I have in the water in a kayak: the proximity to birds and fish - the views of land - the quietness & peacefulness of it.

I learned in a white water kayak and it is still my favorite "medium", but I don't get to do it very often these days.

I've been moving around quite a lot over the course of the last ten years, so I don't have any of my own equipment right now. I rent equipment and go whenever I can, where ever I am.

I often get out on fresh water and slow rivers in my local area; I get out in a sea kayak a couple times a year off the coast of Cape Cod and very occasionally I get the opportunity to kayak in white water.

In November I went out in sea kayaks off the Island of Hawai'i, that was truly amazing - I was kayaking with huge sea turtles and dolphins.

[Blaze]

Oh the Envy... You scored Afixer on the canoe! Hope you get to finish fixing it up and posting pictures! Thank you for sharing. And I love that you could show what model kayak you have! Mine is old, and you really can't find pics online anymore, lol. Guess I will have to take pics of mine later. The original Aquaterra Prism trademark was taken over by Perseption kayaks, so needless to say they stopped making this model. Out dated like me

Sparkle, I love how you descibe the view of seeing it at birds view. Being able to see things that you don't get to see being on land. For me, I have never really river yaked, I do have an adventurous mind to try white water. But have only been a wave rider and angler yaker. Wow, now I really want to try river/white water challenge, sounds exciting.

[Sparkle]

The perspective is great and its different from other types of boating experiences; when I am in a kayak I really feel I am experiencing the water (like when I swim or snorkel). In canoes/boats/motorized boats - I feel like I am on top of the water, but in a kayak I feel I am IN it.

White Water kayaking is very exciting and challenging. It is also the most expensive way to kayak; the boat and paddles are more expensive and they get banged up much more quickly, and if you are renting equipment you need a helmet and a wet suit and certification/proof of experience at different rapids levels. But the boats themselves are very cool, so small and agile.

Turasultana, I've always wanted to kayak the Hudson around Manhattan but the boat traffic (BIG boat traffic, specifically, has always intimidated me).

[Blaze]

Yesssssss I found pics online of my model



My yak is like the white one on the picture above, but I rigged it for fishing. Putting a Scotty rod holder, rod pipes behind the seat, and making a PVC rocket launcher to hold 5 poles or a net and 4 poles, lol. The only dislike of this model is the hatches leak if flipped making it an awful time trying to right it back. So I try hard not to turtle.

[afixer]

Originally Posted by Sparkle

I've always wanted to kayak the Hudson around Manhattan but the boat traffic (BIG boat traffic, specifically, has always intimidated me).

other parts of the Hudson are only an hour away.
and this places rents. Hudson Valley Outfitter's


I may have to try them out next spring.

[Blaze]

Information on River Safety:

RIVER SAFETY

Top 10 River Safety Tips

1. Tell someone where you are going, when you expect to return, and where to call if you don't.
2. Make sure that your water skills and experience are equal to the river and the conditions.
3. Never boat alone. Always have at least one (preferrably two) other boats with you on a river trip.
4. Wear a Coast Guard approved type III-V, properly adjusted lifejacket at all times when you are in or near the river.
5. Know your limits of swimmers rescue and self rescue on rivers.
6. Know when and how to swim for the eddy.
7. Reduce injuries by wearing protective foot wear and proper clothing designed for river recreation.
8. Be prepared for extremes in weather, especially cold.
9. Know about hypothermia and how it can affect you.
10. Plan your trip and stick to your plan.
International Scale of River Difficulty

Flat Water
A - Pools, lakes, or rivers with velocity under 2 MPH.
B - Rivers with velocity 2-4 MPH.
C - Rivers with velocity over 4 MPH. May have sharp bends or obstructions.
Whitewater
CLASS I - Moving water a few riffles and small waves. Few or no obstructions.
CLASS II - Easy rapids with waves up to three feet, and wide, clear channels that are obvious without scouting. Some maneuvering is required.
CLASS III - Rapids with high, irregular waves often capable of swamping an open canoe. Narrow passages that often require complex maneuvering. May require scouting from shore.
CLASS IV - Long, difficult rapids, with constricted passages that often require precise maneuvering in very turbulent waters. Scouting from shore is often necessary, and conditions make rescue difficult. Generally not possible for open canoes. Boaters in covered canoes and kayaks should be able to Eskimo roll.
CLASS V - Extremely difficult, long and very violent rapids with highly congested routes that nearly always must be scouted from shore. Rescue conditions are difficult and there is significant hazard to life in event of a mishap. Ability to Eskimo roll is essential for kayaks and canoes.
CLASS VI - Difficulties of Class V carried to the extreme of navigability. Nearly impossible and very dangerous. For teams of experts only, after close study and with all precautions taken.
Essential Canoeing/Kayaking Equipment and Gear

Endlines - Installed on the bow and stern, a line size of 3/8" diameter and 15' long is optimal. Endlines should be stowed to prevent entanglement but be immediately accessible in the event of a mishap.
Endtanks/Endbag - Many canoes/kayaks come with built-in flotation in the bow and stern. The flotation should contour the end of the boat whether it is foam block or an inflatable bag.
Water Bottle - Be sure to drink plenty of nonalcoholic fluids. Dehydration results from excessive water loss. Take at least one quart of water per person per day.
Bailer - Scoop or sponge used to remove lose water from the craft.
Spare Paddle - always carry a spare paddle in case yours is lost or breaks. It may be fastened to the canoe but should be quickly accessible in case of an emergency.
Flotation Bags - To work best the bags should fit the hull snugly with little or no air spaces. Tie the bags securely in the craft to prevent them from popping out.
Thigh Straps - Usually made out of two inch nylon webbing, thigh straps give the paddler more control when maneuvering the craft. Optional class II, recommended class III and above.
Seats or Thwarts - Kneeling provides a lower center of gravity and stability through the triangulation of the legs in the bottom of the craft. The lower the height of the seat the more stability can be achieved. Ten to twelve inches above the bottom of the craft is good.
Throwline/Throwbag - Sixty to seventy feet of soft braided 3/8" polypropylene line to be used for rescue purposes.
Knee Pads - Usually made out of soft foam rubber, knee pads should protect the knees while kneeling. Also, they should affix the knees firmly to the hull. This increases the paddler's ability to maneuver the craft.
Choosing River Clothing

Cold Water
Like standing in a cold shower, cold water can drive the breath from a person upon impact with the water. It disorientates, totally robs a person's strength, quickly numbs the arms and legs, and within minutes the resulting severe pain can cloud rational thought. Finally, hypothermia (exposure) sets in, and without rescue and proper first aid treatment, unconsciousness and death may result. Experts consider water below 70 degrees F to be cold. Some experts use the "100 Degree Rule". If the air and water temperature combined to less than 100 degrees a wet or dry suit is mandatory and the river difficulty is considered one class more difficult than normal (i.e. Class II becomes Class III).
To protect against the effects of cold water, the paddler should select and layer clothing properly. One should know how to spot a hypothermic accident before it happens. Always plan a trip appropriately. Lastly, good paddling skills and equipment can often help the paddler avoid a situation which may lead to hypothermia.
Cold Weather Clothing
Helmet - Wear a good plastic or fiberglass helmet. Make sure that it protects your temples. A helmet is recommended for open canoeists on any river Class III or above.
Whistle - A must for communications. The sound of a whistle carries over the roar of the river and much further than that of the human voice.
Pouch - For storing valuables including car keys for the shuttle car and money for an emergency phone call.
Lifejacket - The lifejacket (PFD) should fit snugly, yet allow freedom of movement. A vest type jacket (type III) is more comfortable to wear, offers better protection to the lower back, and insulates better in cold weather than the inexpensive horse collar jacket (type II).
Dry/Wetsuit - Made of rubberized material the drysuit seals the paddler in a water tight shell. Normal paddling clothes can be worn underneath it. Made of neoprene the wetsuit traps and insulates a thin layer of warm water next to the body. Both suits should protect the high heat loss areas of the arm pits, crouch, and neck.
Sweater - Worn underneath the drysuit. Wool is good. Polypropylene is better. Avoid cotton. It's ability to "wick" moisture will actually make you colder. Layer your clothes so you can put on or take off layers if you get too hot or cold.
Knife - (optional) A knife may be carried to free the paddler in case of entrapment.
Safety Rope/ Throw Bag - Many experts carry a nylon sling with a carabiner or a mini-throwbag which can quickly be used to rescue another boater.
Booties - Wet suit booties with rubber soles are an ideal choice for cold weather. Also, wet suit socks worn inside rubber-soled sneakers or plastic sandals provide good protection.
Pogies - Usually fastened directly to the paddle, pogies or mittens protect the hands and wrists from chilling wind.
Paddle - Select a sturdy paddle, one made of fiberglass and aluminum. Wood paddles should be constructed with fiberglass reinforced laminated wood. A "T" grip gives better paddle control in whitewater.
Warm Weather Clothing
Hat/Helmet - A hat protects from the sun. Wear a helmet in Class II and above rivers.
Sunglasses - Choose a good pair of neutral density glasses, with straps if necessary.
Shirt - Wearing a shirt reduces the likelihood of sunburn. A cotton shirt "wicks" the water which helps the evaporation process cool the body.

Lifejacket - For the summer choose an open mesh design lifejacket for its ability to breath. Choose a vest type or jacket (Type III) for its comfort.

Swimsuit pants - Light weight pants over the swimsuit are a good idea even in summer. The sun reflecting off the water and the bottom of the boat can quickly bake the legs.

Pouch - For storing valuables including car keys for the shuttle car and money for an emergency phone call.
Layering Your Clothing
Layered clothes insulate better in cool weather than a single garment of the same thickness. Two medium weight sweaters offer more protection than one heavy sweater. Cover the sweaters with a paddling jacket for even more warmth. To trap in additional heat and keep water out, the paddling jacket should fit tightly around the wrists, neck and waist. Layers can be mixed to maximize the strengths of each layer. Some canoeist use a farmer john type wetsuit (no sleeves and legs) for their first layer coupled with a sweater and a paddling jacket on the next layer. This allows the paddler freedom of movement with the wetsuit providing extra protection if a paddler is immersed in the water. Also with layered clothes the paddler can easily adjust his comfort and heat loss by either putting on another layer or taking one off.

[turasultana]

Originally Posted by Sparkle

Turasultana, I've always wanted to kayak the Hudson around Manhattan but the boat traffic (BIG boat traffic, specifically, has always intimidated me).

There are loads of boats - cruise ships, water taxis, speed boats, ferrys etc. Which is why the free kayaking places have you stay between the piers for the most part. And you can't just rent a boat and take off. I've been going with www.manhattankayak.com on 26th and west side hwy for 10+ years, they go out in groups with a guide or two. You can use all their equipment or your own, whichever. Tours range from a short tour up or down ( current changes about every 6 hours so you'd go against on the way out and with the current coming back), or longer one's that involve going for food (always fun - generally timed so you can grab the current both ways), to circumnavigating manhattan. (time it so you're against the current to start, i've gone the other way and after 7-8 hours hitting a wall of current coming around the battery is HELL).

Just be careful crossing the river or a taxi stop, the boats can be on top of you quicker than you expect. Its fun really.

[Blaze]

This link show's you how to fix a hole in your yak, plastic welding.
There are plenty of write ups on the topic, however a video reference is always good. So, if you ever have a need for a DIY repair, the video will hopefully help.

http://www.teamoceankayak.com/videos/weld/index.html

Tools needed:
Repair/patch plastic (Old pickle buckets make good material)
Dremel
Sauteing Iron

[afixer]

from my home town

my dream (whitewater) boat

and finally a boat for the fishing folks